Introducing the NEW SECTOR ZERO from DWT Racing
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By GunnersTacklebox
Hi All,
New here, but bought a 2022 Sector 750 brand new last march (old stock up here in Canada)
It's a good bike so far, but I have noticed a quirk and was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?
The issue I've had is if I leave the utv parked on any incline, not even a major incline, and leave it to sit for a while (day or two) it will not start properly. It will turn over and not fire until I press the gas pedal, when it will run and rev up, but if I let off the gas it will die. It will keep doing this until I either start it in gear and drive it for a bit or leave it in neutral and roll it down the hill to flatter ground. where it will have to sit for a while.
If I park it on a decline there is no issue. fuel is not low, it's occurred a couple times now.
Any thoughts on the cause of this? Dealership just says bring it in and let them take a look, at my expense of course.
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By HighSon
This mod is not for the fainthearted, as it requires some basic metal fabrication and welding skills. But the result is worth the effort IMO. I chose an aftermarket Honda Talon windshield based on economy, size, and construction (aluminum frame, DOT glass, folding, windshield). It fits OK, a little narrow at the top, and you need to incorporate the lower section of the original acrylic windshield and build some additional plates, but better than being too wide. If you are wondering why I attacked this mod, it's because mine is driven daily on the street. Tired of fading, scratchy, hazy plastic. Sucks in the rain; sucks at night. Now I can see.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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