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2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter, need help accessing tail gate latch screws


Go to solution Solved by Ridge Runner,

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Posted

Hi

i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?

 

thanks

Ridgerunner

Posted

It looks like there are two bolts (6) that go through the rear "U" frame of the bed from the sides,  into the latches (29) that the pins (25) latch into.  Not sure if this is of any help but here is a diagram of the parts without the bed liner.

image.thumb.png.020ed7159d03ab144b92f6c014593458.png

 

Posted

Thanks Alien10.  From the diagram, it looks like I may have to completely remove the bed.  I tried removing the fender lip, but I found out the hard way, that there is no way to put the screws back in, to reattach the lip, because the nut on the inside is not accessible.  I’d really like to know how they put this bed together.  Thanks for the diagram. 

Posted

Yes, they are not the most user friendly assemblies nor are the diagrams.   While there is a section on "removing the bed" they seem to have completely neglected to insert any text to that effect. Wonderful! 

Are your latches damaged?  If they are just jammed up, try to use a pressure washer or hard stream from a hose to flush them out.  Follow that with liberal doses of WD40.  Working them best you can to free them up. 

Posted

It’s really a tough thing to figure out.  My latches are both good, and working, but one side the bolts that hold the latch came loose.  One is missing, and the latch is barely hanging on, to the other bolt, but it’s loose and floppy.  I ordered new bolts/screws, but I can’t get inside the bed assembly to tighten the remaining bolt and replace the one that fell out

Posted

While stacking fire wood, I was looking at my dump box.  There are screws along the bottom and at the front of the side panel  that hold the side panel in place, but there is also the top plates (#11 in the diagram) that have to come off.  There may be some side plate screws hiding under those. (See Note below)   Not sure if there are any side panel screws under the fender lip extension, it doesn't really appear to be so, but hard to tell from the diagram and they aren't visible on mine.  Hopefully, if you can find and remove the side plate screws, including any under the steel top plate, maybe you can pull the side panel away enough to access the latch bolts.

Note:  In the diagram, #3 are those annoying thread clips that the screws go into.  My experience with those on other machines is they tend to fall off when the screws are removed and drop out of site or into a crevice that is inaccessible.   So beware of those.  Again, maybe just removing the rear and bottom screws for the side panel will let you get behind it to the latch bolts.   What a nightmare design!

 

 

Posted

Thank you.  I took one of the fender lip screw/ bolts out, and now there is nothing for it to thread back into.  I concerned that if I take the other screws out, I’ll be worse off.  I’m looking for quick nuts, to see if I can get the bolt I remember back in place.  

Posted

I would never recommend this.... but.......  what if you drilled two  3/4" holes in the fender side directly opposite of where the latch bolt heads are?  

There are real down sides to trying it:   

  • A: You have holes to plug or cover up some how. 
  • B: there might be something inside that is blocking access to the heads of the latch bolts after drilling the holes.
  • 😄 You hit a tail light wire with the drill.

Possible resulting actions:

  • A: Rubber grommets are available in common sizes to plug holes....
  • B: If B is the case, you're sort of screwed, and back to square one.  
  • 😄 See action "B" directly above.

Under questioning, I'll deny ever mentioning any of  this.   

Posted

Thank you.  I’ve thought about drilling a hole, but the bolt heads line up with the back of the rear light assembly.  So I think, with my luck,  I’d end up ruining the light too.  I ordered some of the 6mm threaded quick nuts that slip over panels.  From the diagram you sent, they could be part number 3.  It’s really hard to tell.  Coleman was not any help, sadly.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Ya, that would be my concern too, damaging the light assembly.   

Did I mention how I hate  those "nut clips"?  They fall off and are lost forever.  Probably OK for the production line but removal and maintenance, they are horrible. 

If you have any luck at all, please consider posting your results, it sounds like it could be valuable to other Coleman/Hisun owners. 

Good luck to ya. 

 

 

Posted

I hate those things too.  And with winter coming soon, I’d would hate to not have my tailgate working fully, or have it apart, and unable to get it back together.  Thanks for your help.  I really thought some one one the forum had to repair/replace a tail light assembly and would know the secret of getting it apart and back together

  • Like 1
Posted

If you do try to start removing panels, I'd recommend that the first step would be to take a pick and completely clean out those phillips screw heads so they don't strip out, and use a big enough phillips bit to fully engage the screw head.  (Don't ask why I make this recommendation).

  • Haha 1
Posted

Don’t know if your dump bed is assembled like mine(HS 500) but here is what I found today while wiring some whips. There are 3 screws in the bed, two on the front, two on the bottom rear, and three along the side. The wheel molding is not removed from the side. I’ll try to send some pics. 
Pop Bob

IMG_3071.thumb.jpeg.fb3c9faee25a10a6490b935ff64ee3b6.jpegIMG_3070.thumb.jpeg.481fb96648dce14d4112045e2877c79d.jpegIMG_3068.thumb.jpeg.505617d1f6f03466c9c2bd634860f641.jpegIMG_3069.thumb.jpeg.743aad338c12d06c06b49c9559933785.jpeg

Posted

Pop Bob,  Great pics! thanks for posting them along with the text comments.  It is super helpful to know that those are the fasteners to remove the side panel and get at the latch bolts and I'd guess the tail  light also.

Thanks!!!

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Pop Bob.  Mine is very similar, your photos are very helpful.  When you removed the panel, were the nuts secured to the inside so you didn’t lose them?  I’ll have to check mine to see if I can disassemble mine like you did.  Thank you very much

Posted

They were all secured. I made a false start by trying to remove the mud guard molding. When I removed the first screw I heard the nut drop down into the assembly. I knew then something was up. When I looked more closely at the moulding, I could see two bosses that were obviously secured from the inside so I knew I had to try a different way. It was actually way easier than I expected. Good luck!

Pop Bob

Posted

Thanks Pop Bob.  That’s what I did, I started with the fender lip.   What I don’t recall seeing on my bed is the screws at the top of the side panel.  Your photo shows two holes through the black section of the bed, on the outside above side panel.  Tomorrow, in full daylight I will take another look at mine.   Were there hole plug cover where those two screws are?  When you got the side panel removed were you able to get the lip screw secured?  
thanks again

Posted

The two holes you’re talking about are secured by frame clips which are attached to the tabs on the side panel. They slip behind the black upper portion. So the head of the screw tightens against the black upper portion and pulls the tab against the inside of the top lip. The nuts for the fender lip showed evidence of having spun when they were tightened. They did not use washers so the nuts had dug partially through the molding causing it be about half of its original thickness. So once you get it apart check for that and reassemble with proper hardware if necessary. I keep finding fasteners that are loose or cross threaded. One good thing though, after I got it apart and saw how it was constructed, I was able to fish the wiring harness on the other side and not take it apart. I did a lot of wiring (and pre wiring for future additions) but that can be for another thread. 
Pop Bob

Posted

Thanks Pop Bob

 

mine looks a bit different in that the side panel appears to nest underneath the black section of the bed .  Where I’m stuck is locating the screw heads where the top of the side panel connects to the bed.  I located the screws near the tail light, and on the other end of the bed.    Your advice and photos have been helpful. Thanks again

Posted

Looking at the pics, I think the 500 and 550 beds are the same. My 550 has I think 6 attachment screws/bolts to hold that side panel in place.   

Pop Bob has described their locations. 

Mine has two in the upper side panel, see pic below (stolen from Pop Bob) to hold the panel to the black top cap and rail piece. These are hex cap bolts. You can see in his pic that the side panel's tabs fit behind the top cap and those cap screws pull the side panel up tight to the inside of the top cap. 

Otherwise, on my side panel there are two phillips heads at the front of the side panel, one at the rear upper side panel, and one on the bottom of the side panel toward the rear.  I flexed the bottom edge of my side panel where it wraps under the bed and the mud guard moved a bit with it. So the mud guard screws don't appear to be holding anything except holding the mud guard itself to the side panel. No need to remove those as Pop Bob said.

image.png.d547c4ad733a720d50907de8e69795b4.png

 

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