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By Jon V
Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
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By Qtband
I'm looking at picking up this UTV and this is what the owner says:
"All I know about it is it runs. Display does not work and it will not move! Front end or trans could be locked up. It moves some, but does not sound good."
My question is, what could the moving issue be, and how can I check it out when I look at it? I feel the price is right at $2000, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into.
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By hisun junk
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 with a broke chinese hisun motor and I know that I'm not alone! Almost all the places that were selling them in Colorado don't anymore due to the return for repairs on the clutches and broken timing chains! Don't have yours fixed because it will happen again! They just replace the broken parts with more junk chinese parts! I talked with a UTV mechanic that has replaced one person's clutch 4 times! I have people contacting cub cadet about these problems and also looking into complete motor replacement from hisun junk to a Japanese motor in which the chinese cloned their junk from.
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By jonny L
Went for a nice trail ride for about 20 miles, came back, shut it off, and attempted to go for another ride. The electronic gear shifter will not go into park to start it up. It reads neutral in the park position. Disconnected the battery and reconnected and it now read Park. But, when you put your foot on the brake to start it, it goes right back to neutral. Checked everything that I could think of and decided it has to be the 17 gear position sensor. Not certain this is the issue but I bought a used one on Ebay (could not locate a new one) and will try it. Any other possibilities?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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