Paiute Trail Utah
-
Similar Topics
-
By Frank in MI
Thanks for accepting me!
Haven't got a side by side yet, but have been shopping.
Any advice welcome & I am on a limited budget, so haven't decided yet on new or used.
-
By Howard Elmore
I have owned mine for a couple years now but newer took off road. How well does it do trail riding m?
-
By fishhouse3
FOR SALE: 2021 CFMOTO ZForce 800 Trail with many extras and full warranty until 2027. Only 625 miles and 50 hours of use.
In great condition, has a clean title and one adult owner. Has had all scheduled regular maintenance and has not been abused. Only used about six times on weekend trips to Hatfield-McCoy trails in WV.
Under full CFMOTO Care bumper-to-bumper extended warranty until 8/2027 (paid $1,600). Full service and tune up just completed with new clutch, drive shaft, belt, rollers, etc (paid $1500). Plus it comes with over $3,500 in upgrades and accessories! Way too many included items to list here (see last pics for full details).
This machine is ready to go and needs nothing - just hop in and hit the trails! I have over $20k invested in this machine. Priced VERY fair to sell quick at less than half that!!!
$9,999 WITHOUT warranty -OR- $10,999 WITH full extended warranty until 8/2027.
Located in Chesterfield, VA 23832. Message me for more pics and info!
-
By Hutch
Okay everyone, need some help here. I got my 2014 Bennche Bighorn 700 from my father inlaw. He has had it since new and as far as I know never had any problems with it until recently. It began with it being hard to start and having to give it some throttle for it to start up. Then it wouldn't stay running once it did start. If you go to start it, it will fire right off and only run for a split second and then die. If you give it some throttle it will start and stay running as long as your foot is on the pedal. While it's running its pretty rough and backfires. Here is a list of everything I've done so far. Initially I checked compression and it was low. I changed the cylinder, piston and rings. Took the head apart cleaned and laped the valves. Checked timing a few times. Adjusted the valves. New spark plug. Checked the air filter, it was fine. New battery. Changed the fuel pump because of a broken fitting. Changed the fuel filter, lines and fuel injector. Dumped the old fuel and put new in. Changed the air idle control, TPS, MAP sensor, Voltage Regulator, ECU and harness. I was getting codes 31, 107, 113 and 122 on the display. Once I changed the ECU no more codes have been displayed but still have the same issues. All fuses look good and as far as I can tell Grounds are good unless there are some I can't find. I'm at a loss here. Not really sure where to go. Compression was better after everything I did but I don't remember the numbers. I'll have to check it again if someone thinks that could be the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
-
By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now