Electrical Gremlins (Wench, Lights and 4x4)

[joephus]

Hi all, I'm running into a strange problem with the chassis electrical on my Trooper.  I had someone push me off a rock pile I was high centered on and they smashed a few of my taillights.  I didn't think much of it at the time as taillights are easy to replace, but the next morning I couldn't turn on my headlights or spotlights, my wench motor wouldn't respond to the in/out switch, and the 4x4 switch won't take me out of 4 wheel.

Looking at the Trooper wiring schematic, I can see that all these switches are on the same ING1 circuit so I'm concluding it is some type of electrical issue.  I've completely disconnected the rear lights to rule out any type of shorts or anything there, replaced and verified all the fuses in the passenger seat fuse box with a test lamp.  Verified the line continuity from wench, head lights, and 4x4 connectors.  So Im kinda stuck at this point.

I'm going to go ahead and test all the relays in the passenger side fuse box, but none of those are listed in the manual with having anything to do with 4x4 or the wench so I don't think they will be the solution.  I do see there is a "capstan relay" listed in the wiring schematics on that circuit, but I have no idea where that is (or really what it is, I know a capstan on a boat is kind of a wench so kind of assuming is a translation thing) on the chassis.  I do see something that looks like a rectifier mounted directly behind the wench but not sure what that is either.

Which brings me to me last point, I have had malfunctioning rectifier do weird things on other cars so I'm kind of wondering if this might be the case here as well, but I'm not finding anything called a rectifier in the manual.  Any one have an idea where it might be on the chassis so I can test it?

 

TIA everyone... hoping someone might have some insight!

[Kinarfi]

Check your grounding, there is one major ground point up by the horn, when you check one of your devices, measure the voltage on both sides, input and ground, If the ground side has voltage, bingo, loose ground, mother of lots of gremlins, and there are NO rectifiers to speak of.  What year is your Rig?

Jeff

fill out your profile so we can know more about you and where you're at, maybe someone to help you around the corner

[joephus]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the tip, I had not checked grounding yet so I'll be doing that today.  Had no idea there was a ground point on the horn, probably would have missed that!  A previous owner did some type of janky cut-in on the ignition switch to run power to an after market horn so I bet there is some funkiness going on with that horn ground.  As it stands now, I made sure I had power to ING1, then checked the power at the fuse boxes and those looked good.  Next I checked the winch, lights, and 4x4 switches and the power is dead to all of those.  So, if there is a ground after the fuse box, that is a good candidate for trouble.  I'll update after I check it out.  Thanks again! 

[Kinarfi]

On 5/31/2017 at 7:37 AM, Travis said:

Wait, Joyner's have horns?? I just go to the dollar store and by an party airhorn for $5. 

I think you should go moderate some other forum, as one of the oldest members of the Joyner foum, I was always proud of the be helpful, respectful, attitude this forum, I find your comment Juvenile.

[kenfain]

The ground comment seems to be the most likely. Add a temporary ground if needed, to help diagnose the issue.

[Jacksnife]

I was having a very similar problem with no lights or 4x4, but winch was working.  I looked all around for a gnd next to the horn switch, but couldn't find anything.  I did notice the blue wire coming from the IGN1 straight to the horn so I started smashing on it and voila... everything starts working again!  wth!?   I did wiggle that 4 pin connector so I cleaned it real good and put it back together... knowing this gremlin will soon be back

[Kinarfi]

I pulled up a schematic to check this, but the power to drive all these devices is suspect and may be a blown fuse, capstan is you winch. 

don't let your wife know about your

wench   

 

1.

a country lass or working girl:

The milkmaid was a healthy wench.

2.

Usually Facetious. a girl or young woman.

3.

Archaic. a strumpet.

verb (used without object)

4.

to associate, especially habitually, with promiscuous women.

[Jacksnife]

I was not able to locate that one IGN1 fuse going to headlamp rocker switches.  Having the winch working through me for a loop, but the lights fixed themselves before I followed winch wire to its rocker switch... so it is still unknown to me how it was possible.   I'm guessing the wiring diagram is only a guideline and not a true manufacturing document (at least not for my model)  

I had 12V at the ignition switch, but not at the contact switches.  I also had no reverse lights, horn, and 4x4... and all fuses were good.  I followed IGN1 from the ignition switch (yellow wire) about 20" to a connector where it turned blue.  After the wire turned blue there is a splice going to the horn switch, then the rest of the cable bundle went to the back.  I didn't go further because it started working.  It must have been a bad connection at that connector where the wire color changed from yellow to blue.  

Can you tell me where the wire turns from solid blue to blue/yellow stripe?  There is no fuse going to the horn, and the splice looks factory to me.  Maybe the horn fuse is actually the one going to the headlight rocker switches?

[Kinarfi]

2 hours ago, Jacksnife said:

I was not able to locate that one IGN1 fuse going to headlamp rocker switches.  Having the winch working through me for a loop, but the lights fixed themselves before I followed winch wire to its rocker switch... so it is still unknown to me how it was possible.   I'm guessing the wiring diagram is only a guideline and not a true manufacturing document (at least not for my model)  

I had 12V at the ignition switch, but not at the contact switches.  I also had no reverse lights, horn, and 4x4... and all fuses were good.  I followed IGN1 from the ignition switch (yellow wire) about 20" to a connector where it turned blue.  After the wire turned blue there is a splice going to the horn switch, then the rest of the cable bundle went to the back.  I didn't go further because it started working.  It must have been a bad connection at that connector where the wire color changed from yellow to blue.  

Can you tell me where the wire turns from solid blue to blue/yellow stripe?  There is no fuse going to the horn, and the splice looks factory to me.  Maybe the horn fuse is actually the one going to the headlight rocker switches?

Sorry, it's been quite a while since I traced a wire and don't remember it, so, NO, can't say where wires change colors. and my 15 is different from youur 09