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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Frank Mac67
My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that.
- NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
*I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
*I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment.
Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
Can anyone help?
I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
Can anyone help with this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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By Greg Kilgore
Got a 2021 Axis 500.
I'm needing the head bolt torque specs.
Manual states 38nm.
But saw a video Hisun put out on YT for a 550 stating 50nm + 45° turn of wrench. Didn't think they would be that much difference on a 500 and a 550.
Seen another YT video on a 2013 500. He did 38nm.
Really only want to do this job once and done. And done correct.
Anybody got the answer?
Going to start this rebuild in a few once this weather brakes. Flooding and then snow and cold here now. But spring is around the corner and the wife has to have this fixed or a Honda pioneer may be parked in driveway soon. She has to be able to ride.
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By Rick A
I charged the battery reconnected everything but utv will not start and nothing comes on when key is turned. such as headlights, dash lights nothing.
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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