Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

OK folks, new here cause you are suppose to be the best on knowledge. I am for reference a 60 old mechanic BUT not JOYNER, boys first one. So I was told to ask before I adventure in where I might not need to be.

Just purchased a used 1100 miles 2010 joyner trooper. PROBLEM is: upon putting in gear, and letting out clutch , it seems to me right under the linkage where it goes into the top of transmission I hear like a sound in any gear, like it is not really going in fully, like a mesh problem, now we put in gear, let out clutch and buggy goes, bit you continuesly hear that noise and you know it is not suppose to be there so we stopped until I find out what might be needed. The original owner said maybe the slave cylinder , but upon lookin it does move lever in clutch everytime, every once in a while it does like stick in gear and have to pull up on clutch pedal, only happens sometimes, then shifts and still makes the noise. BUT I had him put in first dump the clutch and it stalled, so it looks like clutch is ok pad wise but thats just me saying. What do you guys recommend me do, I was advised to maybe adjust gear linkage but see no esy way explaining what a proper linkage is, so I am all ears folks, and thats from the old man................

Posted

I think he's passing it on to me, On my 08, I saw some play in the slave cylinder mounting, so I made a bracket to stiffen things up.  I also drilled a hole in the bell so I could stick a little camera in to see what was happening inside, Lenny, one of the early group, did something to beef up the fork to the throw out bearing, but he was a fanatic and even machined the throw out bearing guide.

I would check the hydraulics first, have someone step on the clutch pedal and watch what happens at the bell. I know, you already did this, then, if memory serves me, I'm 68, you can slip the splines on the throw out shaft, make scratches and take photos of things before and after and try moving the throw out with a wrench and see if you feel any thing.

If you don't find anything, buy one of those cheap endoscope (google it) cameras and drill a hole in the top of the bell housing and see if you can spot a breaking part in the throw out linkage. you can spray some grease on the bearing too,

When I sold my 08, it was still running the original parts + the stiffener.

PM me if you want to talk.

Kinarfi, AKA Jeff

PS, where's home for you

Posted

ok we just got in from further diagnosing problem. THERE is no 4th or  5th gears and the others, 1st goes in but kind of noisy doing so, then 2nd goes in a pops back out if you don;t hold shifter and 3rd goes in but while traveling there is some noise but as soon as you let of gas and have some back resistance there is a lot of noise in transmission with any gear

IF tranny is bad what are my options, can anyone rebuild these or is there used ones available, we are clueless just got into joyner yesterday

Posted

also looking for easy info for pulling engine, laymans terms please.

Nothing in the manual I found, never saw a manual as bad on reference as the one i found, any clues about reference material, would like to pull engine and then remove tranny to see what I can really see, cause I am replacing clutch anyway so may as well look, if tranny is bad, any sites for used ones? Rebuildt or anything cheaper than new?

beginning to hate this investment, and what a deal ONLY REASON WE BOUGHT , you tell me

4 new itp 30x14 tires 4 new bead lock rims, 4 newly added king nitrogen shocks, new power steering still in box, 2010 1800 miles $$$$$$$1000 PAID

so I think you could not pass it up right?

Posted

thought I posted this but no relies so must went somewhere so Ill do it over

 

Just got back in from extensive checking utv tranny, and found this no matter what I adjust or try to do I have NO 4th or 5th gear

goes into 1st fine, 2nd goes into but unless you hold shifter down it may pop out, 3rd goes into ok no 4th or 5th????

Now it makes a bad noise like grinding of sort just when you let out clutch and then begin to move and it does move, but whenever you let off gas and put strain back on gear it is very load noises are coming from right underneath shifter rod for tranny.

This mean tranny is bad or can it be something else, then again if tranny is bad what are my choices, by new, any rebuilts, and any used anywhere? Saw new cherry tranny for 1009 dollars tried to find in scrape yards for UTVS but no luck, what you suggest guys, money is tight but if had to will do whatever it takes to use joyner, never used yet had two days lol

Posted

OOOOOPs Wrote this and I guess I forgot to post it so now it's posted

 

As a mechanic, there's nothing to pulling the engine and tranny, just finding all the right bolts and wires to remove, TAKE PHOTOS so you can refer back to them. Keep an eye here, I'll post some valuable info to help you as I find it

Posted

Can you get any information from previous owner or do you not know who it is?

I can't imagine the loss of 4 & 5 being just an adjustment, but you're beyond the realm of what I've done  & i'm not a mechanic, but I have had my engine &tranny out and apart years ago.

Good luck

Jeff

Posted

well KInarfi, don't see anything here about pm so Ill ask the question, I would like to have a good picture of tranny inside so I can tell the name of a couple of bearings I need, where do I find this and who has the best stock of tranny parts especially bearings, can't order them if I don't know real name of bearing

Posted

ok finally some things for you guys to review

 

took tranny apart and found my problem was in pic 1218 the bottom gear assembly had bad bearings, the pic 1219 shows where there was a needle bearing that went bad, so I need that one and the one on other side to fit assembly back in tight and in mesh again

pic 1221 show a set of gears about 5 or so that I have to take out and clean up, they are not ruined but a couple have burrs, that sound feasible to you guys, just can't find anyone to sell me parts yet have email at silverbullet and joyner usa wont know till after noon cause of time difference

1222 is just pic of unit

 

what you guys propose, not even sure how that needle bearing removes, but not worrying till I have parts located

IMG_1218.JPG

IMG_1219.JPG

IMG_1221.JPG

IMG_1222.JPG

Posted

NOT BAD, TWO BEARINGS AND TWO SEALS FOR DIFF

THAT IS FRONT AND REAR BEARING FOR OUTPUT SHAFT, AND ALL ELSE LOOKS OK FOR JUST RATTLING AROUND IN THERE, NOT BAD QUALITY FOR CHINA SOME USA WOULD HAVE DISTRUCTED ITSELF

PROBLEM WAS NO OIL MOSTLY WATER AND SOME OIL MIX

Posted

22 IS WHATS LEFT OF BEARING ON OUTPUT SHAFT REAR

23 IS SAME PIC OF OUTPUT SHAFT BUT OUT OF TRANNY

25 IS OTHER END OF OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING FRONT AND REAR BOTH WENT OUT

27 IS WHOLE WHERE i REMOVED OUTPUT SHAFT FROM TRANNY

28 IS OUTPUT DRIVE GEAR, HAD TO TAKE OUT TO REPLACE BUT OIL SEALS

 

FOR BEING CHINA TRANNY SHIT IN THERE TOOK A REAL BEATING BUT VERY LITTLE DAMAGE AND GET THIS IT STILL DROVE WITH BOTH OUTPUT BEARINGS BEING GONE COMPLETELY...........OTHER GEARS ARE STILL MESHED AND PRETTY SHARP JUST A FEW THAT i HAVE TO DRESS UP TO CUT DOWN ON FURTHER WEAR

IMG_1222.JPG

IMG_1223.JPG

IMG_1225.JPG

IMG_1227.JPG

IMG_1228.JPG

IMG_1229.JPG

Posted

ok all rebuilt, two bearings on output shaft and two oil seals did this unit fine..............

NOW after all done the water pump starts seeping out weep hole meaning bad bearings in my mind, so ordered one of these and hopefully my son can then ride the hell out of it lol

Posted

MUST READ BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR................

DO NOT THINK YOU CAN REMOVE ONLY THE TRANNY WITHOUT THE BELL HOUSING.

 

YOU MUST REMOVE THE BELL HOUSE FIRST BECAUSE THERE ARE 3 (THREE)!!!!!! BOLTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING THAT KEEP YOU FROM SPLITTING THE TRANNY HOUSING APART, AFTER YOU REMOVE THESE ALL WILL GO WELL.......................

THAT RIGHT THERE IS WORTH ITS WAIT IN GOLD TO SAVE YOU ADDED TROUBLE............................

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Personnally if you want bearing or seal go in a shop most of them can be buyed right there whit i.d. and o.d. diameter an other thing i hope you have checked  all gear ,fork (teflon pad on fork too) ,and every sliding part i am an automotive thecnician and i have worked quite alot on t-case and manual trany and for make a gear pop out mean bad gear slider , a worn out bearing will make a noisy sound but for loose 4 and 5 im guessing that this trany have been beaten quite hard so maybe loose fork can be the next thing you will have to replace 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • By CRV
      Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help  ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !! 
      Again Howdy brothers & sisters

    • By hetovi
      Hey everyone,
      I’m in the market for a UTV windshield that can withstand extreme conditions, including high winds, dust, and off-road impacts.
      I’ve seen a lot of options out there, but I’m unsure which one will provide the best protection and durability.
      Does anyone have experience with windshields that excel in these environments? Are there specific brands or materials you recommend?
      I’m particularly interested in options that offer both durability and clarity.
      Any tips or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • By Prepper
      Hello All...
           Just bought a 2014 Massimo 500 UTV.  It;s not running at the moment, but hopefully will soon.  I need a seat for it also (passenger side, if it makes any difference.)  It is a crank-but no start situation.  Just now starting to read the boards for solutions.  Apparently these models are well known for this issue.  If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to chime in, it would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...