Quantcast
Jump to content


Doesn't want to start

Rwpjtk

By Rwpjtk
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rwpjtk Rookie

Rwpjtk

Posted
Posted

My 2013 500 will only start if I floor the gas pedal and then once it starts I have to pump the gas until it warms up a little it sounds horrible until it warms up.(around 20 seconds)and then it will stay running. The exhaust smells like raw gas for a little while. The throttle body has been changed. Someone suggested the mass air flow sensor could be the problem ( is that the MAP). It has been to 2 different shops with it not being fixed. I haven't been able to ride it since last fall.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

  • Like 1
Rwpjtk Rookie

Rwpjtk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is the only problem I've had with it since I bought it. Yes I talked to Massimo they said sound like the fuel pump but one shop said they tested that and it was fine. The second shop had it for 5 weeks and never called me on it or even worked on it. They wouldn't answer their  phone or return calls after I left messages. But when I dropped it off the guy said it sounded like the mass air flow.

  • 1 month later...
Rick Wojtkowiak Newbie

Rick Wojtkowiak

Posted
Posted

No it's not fixed yet. putting a MAP sensor in it today. Thats what the mechanic says is wrong. Ill let you know if it works.  It has actually gotten worse. It wont even stay running now when i let off of the gas. Going to be tricky getting it on the trailer to take it the mechanic.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
strike250 Community Regular

strike250

Posted
Posted

You really need to have a diagnostic code reader with live data plugged in. This is the only way to read the EFI system as it runs. It will show if you have any hidden codes, it will show the voltage at the TPS, engine coolant sensor and so forth. All these things need to be working correctly for the engine to get the correct spark and fuel. But with out a Diagnostic reader plugged in, you will have to sit there with a meter and measure the electrical items one by one. The fuel injector simply gets a signal to pulse, this opens the injector at specific times to squirt fuel into the cylinder. This is confirmed by signals from either the timing sensor, or crank sensor. You will also need to make sure something as simple as the coolant temp sensor is working properly, if it is not reading properly, it will tell the engine it is either too cold or too hot. This will effect your fuel problems. You will also have to measure the map sensor, the tps sensor and so on. That is why it is so much easier to get it plugged in and read it as you try to start it. Is there anyone close to you that has a diagnostic reader to plug in when you try to start it?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Rwpjtk Rookie

Rwpjtk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have no idea what that means. Massimo needs a Delphi code reader. The guy that was working on it is at a lose. He doesnt have a code reader and will not spend the kind of money they want for one.

Now it won't start at all. It's getting to much fuel at start up. The whole throttle assembly, the injector has been changed. 

On 12/8/2017 at 6:31 PM, kenfain said:

Is this thing OBD2, or something else? If it is, OBD2, there's fairly cheap options out there for live data readers. 

 

  • Like 1
kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

OBD2 is the same as what is used on all cars and light trucks manufactured for sale in America since 1996. If it has the same plug, it likely takes the same reader.  The professional versions of these readers can cost more than a thousand dollars. When software for these professional readers is added ( and they're updated often, since each manufacturer has brand specific codes) the cost can be several thousand dollars. But the good news is, there's generic information in each system, that's common to all vehicles that use the system. So you don't need the expensive version of this tool. You can use the cheap one, (they're about a hundred bucks) and do a little detective work. The code reader will tell you which part, or system needs to be investigated further. However in your case even that might not be necessary. But unfortunately, it will require someone who either knows, or has access to specific voltage values for that particular models electrical components. This information would still be necessary, even if you had the code reader. That's not saying that a reader wouldn't help. But you still need to be able to decipher the gibberish that a code reader puts out. On a car, there's lots of information on the internet that helps you decipher the information. On one of these, there just isn't that much that can be wrong with it, since there just aren't many components there. And I doubt that even the internet would help with diagnosis. I suspect that a multimeter and some time spent checking the components involved in telling the fuel system how much fuel it needs to start would be the best course of action.

  • Like 1
Dan B Community Regular

Dan B

Posted
Posted

The smell of raw gas in the exhaust tells me one or more of your injectors might be stuck open.  The excess fuel pressure after shutdown might be bleeding off into the cylinder making restart difficult.  But that would also show black smoke upon start up.  If you have a source of compressed air, you might be able to see or feel air coming out the injector.  Worth a try.

  • 3 months later...
Rwpjtk Rookie

Rwpjtk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Your the winner. Yes i found someone to fix it. Tge valves were tight. Apparently with a massimo the get tight all on their own.

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Warden64 Rookie

Warden64

Posted
Posted

I have the benchee 500 tub. Just had it worked on. Fuel pump replaced, voltage regulator, injector,spark plug, throttle body. They called said it was fixed. Brought it home wife drove it across yard parked it. When I tried to restart it to move it never got it to start again. Am at a loss and about as aggravated as can be about it. It is sparking and I put another injector on it still nothing. I hear the fuel pump prime up and it is sparking. Shot a squirt of starting fluid didn’t even try to start. Any help would be appreciated. 

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

 In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start.

Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to.

Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. 

I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use.

Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended  that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics  when doing this. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Warden64 Rookie

Warden64

Posted
Posted
On 12/22/2021 at 8:24 AM, kenfain said:

 In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start.

Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to.

Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. 

I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use.

Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended  that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics  when doing this. 

 

Warden64 Rookie

Warden64

Posted
Posted

Well the valves were checked and adjusted in the shop that worked on it. They had called said it was ready we loaded it by starting it and driving on trailer. Made half a loop around my yard parked it now it won’t start. If you try it after sitting it acts like it wants to start one time. U try it again nothing. Let it sit awhile it does same thing one time then nothing. I cakes the spark by one of these inline spark testers. It sparks big time. Almost acts like it’s not getting fuel. At my wits end. 

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

My opinion is, that it'll be far cheaper in the long run, to get the code reader now. Throwing parts at it, will only make you angrier. Last time I looked, the factory sold a code reader for these machines. It was several hundred dollars.

But there are cheaper delphi readers available. You just need the right plug to connect it. Other forum members have done this. I'm sure that I read a thread, just in the last week or so, that named a specific brand reader as an affordable option.

I think you should start a thread, to find out any information about the cheap Delphi code readers, that might work with your machine. It has to have the right plug, or it's useless till you get that specific plug in that matches yours. 

Take that information, and go from there. 

  • Like 1
kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

Dunno how much you know about code readers. But they only read codes that are actually there. Making their usefulness somewhat limited. Some problems don't generate any codes.

That's why you need  one that does live data. It'll tell you exactly what the engine is doing.

Still quite a challenge to figure out what's not right, but since all the information is there, it becomes a matter of going through it, and finding out what's out of place.

I just don't want you to spend a significant amount of money, thinking it's an instant solution. It's not an end all be all, that just gives you an instant solution. 

Instead, live data is a lot of gibberish to the non mechanically inclined  of us who don't fully understand the information stream it provides. But it's accurate information, you just have to take it one line at a time, and figure it out. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 months later...
KEG 440 Newbie

KEG 440

Posted
Posted
On 12/22/2021 at 1:11 AM, Warden64 said:

I have the benchee 500 tub. Just had it worked on. Fuel pump replaced, voltage regulator, injector,spark plug, throttle body. They called said it was fixed. Brought it home wife drove it across yard parked it. When I tried to restart it to move it never got it to start again. Am at a loss and about as aggravated as can be about it. It is sparking and I put another injector on it still nothing. I hear the fuel pump prime up and it is sparking. Shot a squirt of starting fluid didn’t even try to start. Any help would be appreciated. 

I would do a compression test before adjusting the valves and then after it might tell you if your rings are worn out. The first test will tell you if your valves are good you want over 100 psi that is spec for a 500 I work on Benche, Massimo, Odes, and Hisun at my work.

Warden64 Rookie

Warden64

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, KEG 440 said:

I would do a compression test before adjusting the valves and then after it might tell you if your rings are worn out. The first test will tell you if your valves are good you want over 100 psi that is spec for a 500 I work on Benche, Massimo, Odes, and Hisun at my work.

Jim

Warden64 Rookie

Warden64

Posted
Posted

Thanks and failed to say it had a top end job done. I took it to another guy and it ended up being the valves out of adjustment. Running fine now. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • NC4wd
      Axis 500 Lift Kit
      By NC4wd
      Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.
    • rev6engines
      Black Friday Starts Now At Rev 6!
      By rev6engines
      Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
      If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
      Call or Text:
      801) 489-8697
      Email at:
      [email protected]
       
      Happy riding!!! 🤘

    • Greg Kilgore
      Heater installed 2021 Axis 500
      By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 No Start - Need Help Please
      By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • mac66
      2021 Axis 500 4 month Review
      By mac66
      I bought a used 2021 Axis 500 last April.  Low mileage and got it for considerably less than what they go for new.
      The first thing I did was change the oil/fluids and also put a new drive belt on it.  The only other thing I did to it was add a rear vinyl window that zips open and rolls up to keep the weather off.
      I used it on my 52 acre property to check trail cameras, service the food plots, haul fertilizer, seed etc etc. It's has a good size bed and is not too big or small.  It has worked well as a utility vehicle. 
      Other than using on the trails working around the property I haven't used it much off road...at least until last weekend when I went on 74 mile group ride around the county. In my state it's legal to ride on any road that's not a state or federal highway. The group started in town, rode about 30 miles on back roads to the state ORV trail system. Then did about 20 miles on the trails and then headed back via back roads to town.   
      It had rained for 2 days straight prior, so the trails were one mud hole after another.  It was very challenging.
      The good...
      -It worked fine, never had any kind of issue with it since I bought it.
      -It kept up with more expensive machines on the trails. I was the only one with a CCC (Cheap Chinese Crap) machine.
      -Fairly comfortable to drive.
      -The roof, windshield and rear window kept most of the rain off when it started raining in the afternoon.
      -Okay, I cheated. I peeled off the AXIS 500 stickers on each side. Everybody in the group assumed I had a Rhino. They didn't ask, I didn't tell.
      The not so good...
      -The horsepower rating on the 500-cc engine is 24 hp but it seemed underpowered. While I could go about 35 mph with the pedal to the metal on pavement and hard packed dirt roads the best I could do on loose packed roads was 27 mph. I had trouble keeping up with the others in the group.  It also bogs down on inclines in high gear.  On the other hand, in low gear and 4wd I didn't have any problems going through mud or sand or up hills.
      -It is LOUD! Had to wear shooting earmuffs to keep my ears from ringing while riding. Going to have to address that.
      Overall Impression...
      I was impressed with it on the trails, and it is a good utility vehicle for working around the property. Considering what I paid for it I am very happy with its performance.

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...