Quantcast
Jump to content


Trooper ignition


Tobie1987

Recommended Posts

1 is constant power.

2 is starter solenoid 

3 is power to computer I believe. Turns fan and fuel pump on.

4 i don't know.

Not sure what colors are which but almost any ignition should work. Get a test light. Hook alligator clip to good ground. Then test from there.

I don't have one here or I could tell you what colors...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will turn over but it won’t fire while it’s turn over you let off the key switch it and when the key switch goes back to on position it will fire... I’ve had a intermittent firing problems for ever since I got the trooper.. but it’s normal just a loose ground..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed the key switch and still did the same thing.. done more research and found out on here that the fuse box behind the seat has the controllers when the fuel pump comes on and controls spark.. soo I took all of them out and cleaned them and put grease on them and now it’s got spark all the time and runs great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Jon V
      Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing.
      Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield.
      Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?
    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


    • By sxr951
      2015 massimo 700.. need cylinder bolt!  it some special cut from factory,, its a 125 thread but its like between 8 and 10 mm  dont know where to find any ideas? thx
    • By Oldman
      Ive got an American Sportsworks BD-200.  I can’t get the ignition switch to work, but if I cross the solenoid, it starts right up. Runs great.  Can anyone send me a simple wiring diagram for a switch and where the 3 wires from the switch go!   Any help is greatly appreciated!!!   Thanks!     


×
×
  • Create New...