Hello, UTV noob from Southern California
-
Similar Topics
-
By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
-
By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
-
By CSM_Retired
This is for all of you Kioti Off-Road UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about Kioti Off-Road specific topics including the Kioti Mechron, K9, 2400, and 2440 models.
-
By Homeowner A
I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since. When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?
P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
-
-
By Homeowner A
Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400? I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327. Will not connect. I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since. I was able to clear and read the codes briefly. I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available. There's a few out there but they are expensive.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.