Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys I tore my diff apard anfrer shearing the ring gear bolts. Drug my butt after rearing it down, yesterday while placing a McMaster Carr order I searched the board for the part number and added the bolt s to my normal order. They showed up this morning and I realized they are long , really long. I grabbed a set of calipers and mic'ed the carrier and ring gear and come up with about 16mm in length.

 

So the question is why in the worldvare the bolts that folks talk about 40mm long ? Are you guys ordering them long so that they have a shank at the top where they go thru the carrier & cutting them off ?

 

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Yes!!! that is exactly the reason. I am the one who started the act of using these bolts, my reasoning being that the thread acts as a place for the bolt to start shearing, just cut them all to length and remember, you have to grind the head down also, I think I posted a photo of that also.  to grind them down, I used a drill and a grinder, and I never did agree with those who put nuts on the bolts, 

AND while you have access to the mating surfaces, sand them so the locktite has a little more to grab onto when you apply it to all the very clean surfaces and bolt when you do your final assembly. 

did you find any instruction on how to do all this or have they been lost?

Jeff

Posted

Jeff I didnt find any instructions. I cut the bokts to legth and shimmed the pinion to sit as deep as possible. I realized why these diffs break. They are junk. Lol . I can't shim the carrier to adjust back lash. Well without maching the case to allow for the carrier to move

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Posted

I have been cleaning my garage and ran into the original instruction papers that Lenny sent out with the shim kit. I'm wondering if there's much interest having them posted and the hassle of copying everything. We'll see!

Jeff

Posted
12 hours ago, bigdan120 said:

Could just take photos and post up... Be easier imo. There's some that will benefit in the future I'm sure.

please take some photos of the bolt heads and how much machining you had to do for clearance.

Posted

Ah man now the direction come out, too late for me. The lousy part was I spoke to Silver bullet and he said he had never heard of anyone shimming the spider gears. I had planned to do that just like I do in other diffs. I sorted thru my shims and found what was need to shim the pinion but didn't see any shims behinde the bearing on the carrier to tighten backlash anymore. Now I wish I just went with my plan and shimmed the spiders. I could have ordered plenty of shims. It is better but not ideal. Hopefully it lasts another few years an I can reset up as I'd like later. Bad thing is I tigged the spider gear shafts to the carrier as per Silver bullet but I could easily dress the weld with an endmill and pull them out

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Grant
      I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing 

    • By rdborra
      I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running. 
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy y'all,
      I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
      1)  It is time to change the diff fluid.  The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front!  Is that correct?  That seems odd to me.
      2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it.  What needs to happen here?
      3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid.  Is the final drive actually the tranny?
      Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
      Thanks,
      Craig C.  
    • By bms stallion owner
      hello, my BMS Stallion 600 is having accleration issues. the manual fails to show final gear oil diagrams very well... I have the owners manual and suspect issue is associated to transmission , I want to check the level of the gearoil. I located a drain plug (but not the fill plug nor dipstick). It will run - but wont exceede 2mph. Troubleshooting suggestions or comprehensive manual suggestions? Thanks
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Got a 2021 Axis 500.
      I'm needing the head bolt torque specs.
      Manual states 38nm.
      But saw a video Hisun put out on YT for a 550 stating 50nm + 45° turn of wrench. Didn't think they would be that much difference on a 500 and a 550.
      Seen another YT video on a 2013 500. He did 38nm.
      Really only want to do this job once and done. And done correct.
      Anybody got the answer?
      Going to start this rebuild in a few once this weather brakes. Flooding and then snow and cold here now. But spring is around the corner and the wife has to have this fixed or a Honda pioneer may be parked in driveway soon. She has to be able to ride.
       
×
×
  • Create New...