Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I'm kicking myself sideways,backways and upways right now. I found out in the manual that your supposed to hone  the cylinder before re ringing the piston. So I gotta do that.

 But what's the difference between boring the cylinder and honing it? Some people say boring it makes the cylinder bigger etc.  And some say honing does that.

 But i think honing it is just to remove minor scratches, right?

 And if i hone the cylinder, will that require oversize rings and piston?

 Thanks, T.

Posted

Boring is rough cutting the cylinder to a larger size.  Honing is removing the rough cuts to make the cylinder walls almost perfectly smooth.  A few scratches (not gouges) are left to allow a place for oil to reside to lubricate the piston rings.

  • Like 1
Posted

I would concur with all that's been mentioned above, but to also add, honing is also used to get rid of metal transfer residue. This happens with aluminum pistons. Usually it's a big problem for chainsaws, and such. Never heard of it being a problem on bigger engines.

    So honing in your case is probably optional. It's definitely recommended, but I wouldn't think there'd be much difference. If the motor is still out of the chassis, I'd take it apart, because I know myself too well. My OCD wouldn't let me just forget about it.

  As far as which hone to get, the one with the stones give a nice cross hatch pattern, which is what most people want. I didn't look at any of the others that you linked. But most of the rest will polish the cylinder. Polishing a cylinder is useful for 2 cycle engines, but certainly won't hurt yours. After all, that's what the rings are going to start doing immediately after starting it up. My recommendation would be to get the machine shop up the street to do that as well. Since a cylinder hone is not something you'll ever use much, why buy one? Honing used to be dirt cheap, probably still is. This will also allow you to ask these guys any questions that you might still have. Disassembling, and assembly will go much quicker,and be much easier this time around. It'll also give you a chance to check your previous work.

I'd say to just wade on in. Think of it this way; if you don't, and you can't seem to get it running right. You'll start second guessing all the stuff that you missed, or skipped. Since a motor doesn't have any extra parts, or needless rebuild procedures. Even something as simple as skipping the honing, will become suspect. I can almost guarantee that it won't be the problem, but this way it'll be eliminated for certain.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks! A guy that goes to our church  used  to work in a machine shop, and he's got a hone with the stones, so he's going to come over in a few days and do it, and help me put every thing back in together and button it up (hopefully) :) 

7 hours ago, kenfain said:

Since a motor doesn't have any extra parts

What do you mean? :D ;)   

Posted

Oh, and guess where i found  the part where is says to hone the cylinder? there was a  * by the title of " Piston Installation" and I just saw it, it's in the back of the manual with all of the footnotes, i guess you call them. Not  where you think it would've been on that page....

 

Posted

The comment about extra parts is just to say that the whole engine works together, as a system. If the engine doesn't have the compression it's supposed to have, or lacks a robust performance. It would be easy to say " If only I'd honed that cylinder I could be certain that it isn't some kind of blowby issue. 

   Unless you're a seasoned mechanic, it's ALL gremlins, and voodoo. Especially when you're talking about something like honing. My advice is to hone that sumbitch, and move on. I told you from the beginning, that you'll have to go back into the motor....It happens...almost always. It's how we learn, so embrace it lol.

   When you get it right...it'll be worth it.

 

Posted
1 minute ago, kenfain said:

The comment about extra parts is just to say that the whole engine works together, as a system. If the engine doesn't have the compression it's supposed to have, or lacks a robust performance. It would be easy to say " If only I'd honed that cylinder I could be certain that it isn't some kind of blowby issue. 

:) I know, i just meant that as a joke :) 

 

2 minutes ago, kenfain said:

When you get it right...it'll be worth it.

Im sure it will be, a couple hundred bucks is a LOT cheaper than a new one!!!!!!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By D MAYNARD
      I have an Axis 500 4x4 UTV that I was given.  It looks like an almost new machine with 39 hrs on it however it was apparently under water from the hurricane . I have no spark at the plug. I have replaced the plug, the plug wire, & the stator so far. Can anyone advise me of what i need to check and or replace to get this thing running? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 
                                    Thank You,
                                  D Maynard 
       
    • By strike250
      I have the factory service manual available for the Buck 400. Just send me a message with your email and I'll get it to you. Although there is no charge for this, it would be great if  you would visit my website where you could donate any amount to help do things like this with others who need it. Again, there is no charge for this manual, and no obligation to donate. But if you did, I would thank you for sure. Have fun on the trails. www.warriorsoffroad.com
       
      Matt

    • By Jim Kessell
      Hi All
      Just installed a predator 670 on my Landmaster. My question is can I remove the low oil pressure wire fitting and plumb my mechanical gauge into that access point?
      Thanks in advance for your advice !!
      Jim
    • By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

×
×
  • Create New...