Quantcast
Jump to content


Shortening the turning radius on a Hisun Vector 250


Orebonder

Recommended Posts

Good evening all...

Question?...... Has anyone tried shortening the turning radius on a Hisin? I have the Hisun Vector 250... Which is a blast and perfect for what I need and want. The only thing I would change, now,..is to make the turning radius shorter...mine is about 17 ft. I would think a UTV, side x side would be much tighter.

any thoughts?

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Alex changed the title to Shortening the turning radius on a Hisun Vector 250
  • 2 weeks later...

There are a few mechanical issues to address when thinking about changing turning radius. The ability of the OEM steering box/rack. The length of the OEM tie rods, the steering stops built into the OEM spindles. All of this has to be addressed when trying to change the turning radius. You can adjust the steering stops on the spindles, but if the OEM steering box will not allow more movement in the gearing, then there is nothing you can do to get a tighter turning circle. You might try to go with an aftermarket steering rack. You will need to measure the distance from tie rod outer end to the other outer end to try to get one with the same distance in order to have a correct toe in measurement. Making sure the steering shaft will also bolt to the new steering rack as well. Or you will have to cut and weld to make things work. It can be done, but will take some thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By John M in Louisiana
      Quick question about replacing the plug.  One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs.  15amp 125v?  Is it more complicated than that?  I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
      Thanks in advance!
    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner
×
×
  • Create New...