-
Similar Topics
-
By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
-
By SayHiToRambo
08 trooper 1100
Bit of background. First the machine would take for ever to start. So I adjusted the valve shims into spec and made sure the timing is correct. Starts perfectly now.
now it fluctuates on idle. Bogs down, Revs up, repeat. I noticed the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 20psi while that happens. It also bogs down at the lower end of each gear, higher rpm seems to be fine. Seems to struggle under load. In neutral it revs up perfectly.
brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, gas. I noticed on the fuel pressure regulator there’s that vacuum nipple, it’s not attached to anything and I’m not sure where it would go. Possibly the problem?
Another issue is the tip off the end of the exhaust is broken off, sensor is still attached and connected. Could that cause these issues?
my next plan was to look into the pressure regulator and voltage to fuel pump while driving. Is there anything I’m missing or any ideas you guys have?
thanks!
-
By Troy C
I am new to forum but I have a 2012 polaris ranger 800 that motor went out and had it replaced and a year later here i am again so i am interested in converting it to EV . I am 72 but pretty active and live on 500 ac of land that part is in hills but most is in low land. I have no idea what i need or want so any advice will be appreciated. Thanks guys
-
-
By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now