550 Travis' Mule 550

[kenfain]

Twenty four bucks for six inches of fuel line! It doesn't sound like it's even high pressure line. But it's still likely cheaper than driving to Houston to find it cheaper. You've got to wait on the key anyway, so if that's all that stands in the way, then I'd say you got off light. Typically on a rebuild, I'll make several trips to the local parts house for those odd bits.

[Travis]

I found the key, it was in a parts bin where i put some of the hardware for it. 😐

Plus, driving to houston anymore you're risking your life!

One question,  do torque wrenches torque in reverse?   left handed threads on the drive pulleys bolts.

[kenfain]

4 minutes ago, Travis said:

I found the key, it was in a parts bin where i put some of the hardware for it. 😐

Plus, driving to houston anymore you're risking your life!

One question,  do torque wrenches torque in reverse?   left handed threads on the drive pulleys bolts.

Glad you found the key! Maybe there's an old school parts house, or tractor parts supply, or even big rig parts nearby. Some of these places will have a diverse collection of hoses. Might have to go to several. I recently ran across this same thing looking for a metric hose. Out in the country, my money would be on the local tractor dealership. Call and ask if they sell metric fuel line by the foot. That's where I got mine, and it was about a foot. Cost me twelve bucks iirc.

There's several kinds of torque wrenches, so I can't say all will set the torque in reverse. But I'd say that any I'm aware of are made to torque left hand thread also. 

[Travis]

Pulley bolts torqued, belt cover installed, and shocks installed.

the carb has a small gas leak, I tightened the bowl but and I think it stopped it.

And I called several parts stores around here  and all they have cost the same as the piece I can order.

 

[kenfain]

Ordering the exact part would probably be best in this case. And I thought that my twelve dollar bit of hose was expensive.

[Travis]

I fired it up after i got the belt cover on and all, to be sure nothing was rubbing on anything etc. I'm  really pleased, It fires right up, just a quick turn of the key.

 It used to spin over for 3 or 4 seconds before it started.    

[Travis]

I', thinking of replacing the headlights, as they aren't very good for night driving anymore, and Christmas is coming up   

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Northpole-Flood-Lights-Driving/dp/B01EJWB62U/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544845742&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=police+spotlight&psc=1

im thinking about these. Do you think  my battery would still work good with these? I think it said they draw 9 watts each.

[kenfain]

8 hours ago, Travis said:

I', thinking of replacing the headlights, as they aren't very good for night driving anymore, and Christmas is coming up   

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Northpole-Flood-Lights-Driving/dp/B01EJWB62U/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544845742&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=police+spotlight&psc=1

im thinking about these. Do you think  my battery would still work good with these? I think it said they draw 9 watts each.

Looks like the ones that you linked to, draw 3w per bulb ×6 =18w per light. That might be a stretch for your mule's electrical output. If you didn't use the lights for very long, maybe ten minutes or so at a time, while the engine is running. Just like you have to do, when you're using a winch, you might be okay. You'd definitely need to always use a battery maintainer type charger, when it's parked, to make sure the battery doesn't get too low. This is all based on two assumptions; that your mule doesn't have an alternator, and that you'd have these lights on a separate switch, with only occasional use. If they replace the existing headlights, you'd need to know how much power you're saving there. But I'll bet those old lights use plenty of watts.

[Travis]

It does have an alternator, In between the flywheel and block.

 

[Travis]

I was going to electrical tape my wire splices and leave it at that, but im going to use those heat shrink sleeves and do it right

 

,

[kenfain]

Soldered first?

[Travis]

The only soldering iron i got takes forever to heat up and barely gets hot enough to melt the solder.... Guess it's time for a new one.....

I got Brakes now!  bled all the breaks and filled 'er up with brake fluid.

[Travis]

Here are my two helpers, Sally  (tan) Chief (black)

 They're real good dogs and good listeners.  I think they have 2 different daddies,  The tan one is mixed with Pitbull and some kind of bird dog, and the black one is Pitbull mixed with assuming, a  rotweiller or doberman.

[Travis]

[Travis]

Well, i have a electrical problem now, whenever I turn the headlights on, and press the brake pedal the brake light doesn't come on, but when the lights are off it comes on..... Not a serious problem, I can live with it.

[Travis]

Right rear brake locked up. cant get the drum off.

  I've done everything the manual says. about to try  taking off  the plug they have to further release pressure/

[kenfain]

I'd try to back off the bleeder screw just a bit. Then try to gently pry my way in. If you can expose the brake shoes, you could possibly collapse the shoes. Of course this plan is dependent on it being the main brake, and not the emergency brake, being what's locked up. So I suppose that's the first order of business. We're gonna need more information. But I have to say, that plug is typically just a cover for the adjustment.

[Travis]

I took the plug off, depressed the spring and VOILA !

So I fired it up and drive it up the driveway an back! I need to re adjust the governed and idle speed, although the governed right now is at how fast I usually drive it.

how long should I run the break in oil???

[kenfain]

Glad to hear you got the brake going again without much drama. As far as the break in oil, I'd just wait till it started to get a light brown. But that's pretty much when I try to change oil. Break in, or otherwise, doesn't matter to me.

[Travis]

For some reason at idle it knocks, but the knock is coming from the belt case, it could be cause I put a new belt on it, and I know the the pulleys are known for making noise as they age, not sure why though. Never made the noise until i put the belt on it.

It sounds far different from a rod knock.

[kenfain]

Can you idle it with the cover removed?

[Travis]

Yes.

I took the cover off and fired it up, if you know how a centrifugal  clutch works, that what the pulleys is, you have one piece that moves out from underneath the metal housing and whenever it's at idle, it's rubbing against the housing, and when I gas it it moves from underneath the housing and stops, I also noticed the movement of it is rough and catchy not smooth like it should be.

[kenfain]

Sounds like the springs are getting weaker with age. If it can be rebuilt, that'd be the way to go. Otherwise you might have to replace it.

[Travis]

It is rebuildable.

I took a video but the trouble is getting it from my tablet to the computer. Lol.

 

[Travis]

The cheapest USED one i found was $250 on ebay. I found a guy selling a rebuild kit for it for $60. but that was for the transmission driven pulley.

Brand new oem is $390, thats almost what i have in the engine! lol.

 This diagram is a little confusing for me as to which parts go on what.... of course once i take it apart i can find out.... but looking at the parts i THINK  i'll need. I'll just wait until it blows up and replace it...

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b2773f8700223e4791d4c/drive-converter

[kenfain]

There's not much to most centrifugal clutches. I believe it's pretty straightforward. Of course I've only seen the little ones, so yours could be more involved. But usually on something like this, the real difficulty is in fighting the new springs back on. Since they're new, and stiff, it can be a real problem. Sometimes there's special tools, and/or techniques that'll help. But it sounds like the kit is the way to go. Might end up being easy.

[Travis]

Looks like this wacked with a hammer or something before....

[Travis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoZLFLXBhc0&feature=youtu.be

[Travis]

Well, after doing some head and rear scratching and putting the pencil to it. I think im just going to put it back on and role with it. That rebuild kit i found is for the DRIVEN pulley on the transmission input shaft.

 And the parts total to rebuild the clutch nears $200, and a brand new one is $386 from Kawasaki........... thats almost more than i have in the engine!
 

[Travis]

I lubed it up and put it back on, sounds great now!!!

I notice I have a slight ticking coming from the head, sounds like a lifter.