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By Ken rung
Does Anyone by chance have a owners manual and a shop manual for a 2007 800cc trooper. I just bought one and need to figure out where and how to engage and disengage the 4 wheel drive. Is it electronic or is there a hidden lever. PLEASE HELP
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By CYJSP2009
Dear Joyner owners
Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
Currently, we have supply below parts:
1. cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
2. Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
3. Cables,
4. Brake parts
5. Engine parts
6. Other parts.
We will provide better price, close follow up ...
We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers
Have a good weekend
Casey / Leaf Asia
2023-11-17
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By rocmoc
This is rocmoc/Michael one of the first on this forum when the Joyner was one of the most active topics. First an update of others. The earlier members will also remember Lenny and Jeff. With myself we organized the first Jamborees in 2009-2012. Sadly if you have not heard we lost both Lenny and Jeff in 2018. A great loss to the community. Myself: Still around but rolled over to Jeep and Arctic Cat Wildcat. The Wildcat design still remains me of my old 2008 Trooper. Doing well as the Last Man Standing but cleaning out the garage. Found some New and used Trooper parts I will list in the parts section. Wanted to give you all a chance before I list on Ebay. As many of you knew Lenny listed a lot of stuff on Ebay. Will I partnered a lot of the stuff with him and I still have stuff. Take care and I will check in for message should you want to ride. Still make it to Utah every other year and am still in Southern AZ.
rocmoc in AZ/Mexico
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By Alien10
I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well. 65 hours on it so far. It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn". The rest is under a lake.
My parking brake does not seem to have any grip. It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless. I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines. I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down. There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling.
Any thoughts on possible causes?
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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