Shock Info!

[flatbed]

When instaling shocks you have 3 points, where the arm pivots, the upper shock mount and the lower shock mount. It is very important to keep the angle between the lower shock mount and the arm as close to the same through the arc as you can. If you let that angle become more in effect you are making your spring get softer through its compresion, the leverage becomes more against the spring as the arm goes up, kind of like the latch that hold the rear deck down, it also hinders the springs ability to get the wheel back to ride height for the next bump. that is a extreme. Moving the lower mount closer to the arm pivot point, i do not think this is a good idea,the suspension will get softer as it compresses witch is the oppiste of what you want, the trooper angles are good stock, if any thing you want to move the lower shock mount away from the arm pivot point . You are facking the spring out untill you need it, and it is impossiable to get a shock to work that way. Stock shocks get hot very easy, they are made of stainless witch does not disapate hea very well, thick oil more heat, more nitrogen more heat, cheap shock , it will fail. I believe the ride is softer in what you have done because the steps you did make the spring softer, but the angle between the shock and arm increase as you go through your stroke.

[Guest Lenny]

When instaling shocks you have 3 points, where the arm pivots, the upper shock mount and the lower shock mount. It is very important to keep the angle between the lower shock mount and the arm as close to the same through the arc as you can. If you let that angle become more in effect you are making your spring get softer through its compresion, the leverage becomes more against the spring as the arm goes up, kind of like the latch that hold the rear deck down, it also hinders the springs ability to get the wheel back to ride height for the next bump. that is a extreme. Moving the lower mount closer to the arm pivot point, i do not think this is a good idea,the suspension will get softer as it compresses witch is the oppiste of what you want, the trooper angles are good stock, if any thing you want to move the lower shock mount away from the arm pivot point . You are facking the spring out untill you need it, and it is impossiable to get a shock to work that way. Stock shocks get hot very easy, they are made of stainless witch does not disapate hea very well, thick oil more heat, more nitrogen more heat, cheap shock , it will fail. I believe the ride is softer in what you have done because the steps you did make the spring softer, but the angle between the shock and arm increase as you go through your stroke.

I agree with you completely, however, first off the stock trooper is sprung very stiff. Too stiff I feel. The spring rate is quite high (500# per inch). I want to soften it at the beginning of it's cycle. I've done this by giving the arm more leverage on the spring. Currently, I'm able to adjust the start of my cycle from soft to somewhat stiffer, stiff enough for the rebound to be too quick and kick the rear back up feeling like a bounce. I can have it loose enough to be mushy and have sluggish return. This is the range I was looking for at the first part of the cycle. So far I havn't increased the shock oil from 10w and haven't decided rather I'll need to. If you take the mounting points i've choosen, you will see that I start out with the shock at about 32-1/2 degrees (top leaning forward) to a line drawn between the arm pivot point and the axel center. As it compresses the angle actually lessens and ends up at about 10 degrees fully compresses, still tipped torwards the front. Thus my spring 'rate of compression' increasses as the arm moves up.This is exactly what I want. If you relook at my post, you will see that what I tried to convey was that the ride was plush and yet showed no signs of bottoming. I have not yet hit the nasty bumps but I can still firm up quite a bit if necessary. Based on the ride preformance, I may not need to firm up all that much. Also going to heavier weight shock oil could do the job or a combination of both.

One thing I do know is that It sure preformed unexpectedly great, even in the medium ruff stuff and on a small jump. The tires seem to stay pinnd to the ground showing good rebound speed without bounce. Your concern about the shock quality is also correct. A quality shock should handle this fine. So far my shock is holding up ok, knock on wood. It sounds like you know your suspension better than me but I do know my physics and I base pretty much all my dicisions on what physics tells me should be correct. I didn't know that the suspension wanted to increase push back as it compressed but when I looked at this seemed logical so I tried it that way and It seem to work great. Thanks for your input, I learned a few things. Isn't that what these forums are all about, to share experiences and mod trys. It's great to look at what we learned as a group so ultimately we can take the best of all the ideas and use them on our own machines. I learn something pretty much every time I read the forums. I feel pretty stupid some times and I always heard that you can't fix stupid.

Thanks for the suspension lesson. You guys and gals are great.

love and kisses (gals only)

LOL

Lenny

[4x4x454]

What do you think about fox 2.0 adjustable shocks would this be over kill?

[flatbed]

Shocks that you can adjust would be great, a ice chest in the back makes a huge difference in the susp. Lenny, the angle i am talkiing about is between the arm and the shock, if the shock is starting to stand strait up as you compress, it will make the spring not react correctly. I am running a 8" 300lb tender over a 10" 600lb on a 2.0 fox shock. I think a 350 on the tender would be better because you would not getting into the 600 as quick. I am not trying to sound like a know it all, just want other people reading this form to understand each others point of view. Like i said, i have 14 1/2 inches of travel in the back, the ride is outstanding and all i did was relocate the rear diff as you have done, but i moved the lower shock mount towards the rear about 3/4 of a inch and braced the arm. I have the front shocks, same size 2.0s with 300 over 400 but i have not put them in because i do not want to change the angles, i have to cut the tubing in the front of the car so i can move the the upper shock mount. I want the full 14 1/2 inches of travel in the front also. I do not know what the rear stock spring rate is, but i do know that it is more than a 600. the valving in my rear shocks is 50-40 with 200lbs of nitrigen.

[ERV JR]

Can anyone post pics of the diff relocation and bracing of the arms

[flatbed]

the top mount is in the stock location. the lower shock mount is 14 1/2 " from the center of both the bolts that hold the trailing arm on, the mount is 1 3/4" up from the surface of the arm, all measurements are from center of bolt. Before welding make shure the shock is fully extended, put your hand on the axle and make shure you can move it, also rotate the cv joint to make shure it is not binding. the drain plug on my diff is 3/16" from the bottom of the tube, almost even with the bottom of the frame.

[Guest Lenny]

Shocks that you can adjust would be great, a ice chest in the back makes a huge difference in the susp. Lenny, the angle i am talkiing about is between the arm and the shock, if the shock is starting to stand strait up as you compress, it will make the spring not react correctly. I am running a 8" 300lb tender over a 10" 600lb on a 2.0 fox shock. I think a 350 on the tender would be better because you would not getting into the 600 as quick. I am not trying to sound like a know it all, just want other people reading this form to understand each others point of view. Like i said, i have 14 1/2 inches of travel in the back, the ride is outstanding and all i did was relocate the rear diff as you have done, but i moved the lower shock mount towards the rear about 3/4 of a inch and braced the arm. I have the front shocks, same size 2.0s with 300 over 400 but i have not put them in because i do not want to change the angles, i have to cut the tubing in the front of the car so i can move the the upper shock mount. I want the full 14 1/2 inches of travel in the front also. I do not know what the rear stock spring rate is, but i do know that it is more than a 600. the valving in my rear shocks is 50-40 with 200lbs of nitrigen.

Thanks loads Flatbed. It's easy to see why you have gained a lot of respect on the forums. I starting to see what you mean. Maybe the thing that sent me astray is that I figured I had to make it work with the stock shocks so I felt forced to move the shocks closer to the arms pivot point in order to get the extra travel. I'm getting 13-5/16" right now and I'm not using the extra movement available at the top end of the suspension as you are. I think I can get the 14-1/2" also but for now I pushed things as far as I can. When I can afford to get new shocks I will be sure to consult you first. I'm retired and needless to say my stocks are sucking wind.

I did a simular thing on the front but was much more limited and was only able to get about 9-3/4" of travel. I have not lowered the front dif yet. I'll wait until I have new shocks to redo the front. I too want the 14-1/2' travel on both ends.

Even though my Trooper's suspension if far better then it was, I guess I better enjoy it while it last.

LOL

Lenny

[MegZ]

Thanks loads Flatbed. It's easy to see why you have gained a lot of respect on the forums. I starting to see what you mean. Maybe the thing that sent me astray is that I figured I had to make it work with the stock shocks so I felt forced to move the shocks closer to the arms pivot point in order to get the extra travel. I'm getting 13-5/16" right now and I'm not using the extra movement available at the top end of the suspension as you are. I think I can get the 14-1/2" also but for now I pushed things as far as I can. When I can afford to get new shocks I will be sure to consult you first. I'm retired and needless to say my stocks are sucking wind.

I did a simular thing on the front but was much more limited and was only able to get about 9-3/4" of travel. I have not lowered the front dif yet. I'll wait until I have new shocks to redo the front. I too want the 14-1/2' travel on both ends.

Even though my Trooper's suspension if far better then it was, I guess I better enjoy it while it last.

LOL

Lenny

I am finally getting some shocks... we have been working with King since fox cant seems to try and figure out which ones will actually fit but we are trying to see about ordering a few sets and will def. be putting it on the t2 when we get them.. i will let everyone know how it goes when we get to that point! Meg

ps... im about to pop!

[flatbed]

POP, that sounds like it might hurt, do not do that. Remember the front shocks are shorter than the back, kepp it simple

[MegZ]

POP, that sounds like it might hurt, do not do that. Remember the front shocks are shorter than the back, kepp it simple

Ya... I got all the measurements for the fronts and the backs and we are trying to work up a deal for a few sets:) lol and it does hurt right now... lol

[krusstygun]

in my opinion foa shocks are not worth the hassle service is piss poor . no phone number

it takes for ever to receive them ,just over a month

when they did show up the heim joint was way to small 12mm stock is 15mm

finish is low end while it is in the lathe they could run some sand paper over them

i was reading a post on a site and it seemed that they have a high emp, turn over

i will not put this junk on my trooper

[Zorro]

I see all this talk on shocks was back in 2008 Whats the latest? Most of what you are talking about is over my head.

I want some good shocks for my T2 without having to change mounting brackets if thats possible. I just want to be able bolt on and go. How are the King shocks? Man they are spendie!!!

Has anyone other than King developed shocks for the T2?

[rocmoc]

I am going with Fox. Thought I would have them installed for the upcoming Farmington, NM. adventure but have not been home. King are great shocks but so are Fox and a couple others. Depends upon how aggressive a 4-wheeler you are to justify the cost.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Kinarfi]

I see all this talk on shocks was back in 2008 Whats the latest? Most of what you are talking about is over my head.

I want some good shocks for my T2 without having to change mounting brackets if thats possible. I just want to be able bolt on and go. How are the King shocks? Man they are spendie!!!

Has anyone other than King developed shocks for the T2?

As I said earlier, I went with FOA and only had to add a limiting strap and have been happy with them, so is my wife. We aren't too aggressive, but I think I could handle more than I'm willing to try. I had good dealing with FOA.

Kinarfi

[Ernie]

Hello guys and gals!

It's now 2012... any new updates on the shocks? How are the ones you put on 2-4 years ago working out for those of you that have replaced them?

Like Kinarfi, I want to just bolt on new little better than the chincey stock ones and go. The King price is out of the question for my retired budget.

I have a 2008? first 5,000 T-2 Trooper.

Thanks,

Ernie

[charlie]

Hey n race dezert . Come there was a used set of fox and kings I wanna say 10"travel I believe in the 1200 range if that helps! Lot oh guys like the coil overs lots of choices out the off road warehouse seems to know there stuff

[Kinarfi]

Decided to add to existing thread rather than start new one,

I got my new FOA shocks on and started out to give them and try and my wife says, "let's go eat first" , so we did, started raining as we ate and by the time we got back home, we were wet! the only real test so far was a speed bump, but I was impressed, by it, more soon, as it's supposed to rain tomorrow and help put out our 8 wild fires burning here in Utah. I will post an update after I have driven on them.

Ordered online on 06-18-2012($563.25)(I over paid by $40.00 because I ordered 2.5s instead of 2.0), received shocks 07-12-2012, received springs 07-13-2012 and finished mounting and cleaning up around 5:00 and went to eat. I had one issue with the way they mount and sent the following message to FOA,

I just bought a set of FOA shocks for the front of my Trooper because I think I get a good shock for a good price and I can tear them down and do my own revalving and maintenance.

Here's the problem, the bolts holding our shock on are 15mm and so is the hole in the shock mount. If I put a 1/2" bolt in the 15mm hole, the bolt moves up and down and wears the

hole out until the mount breaks, I crash and I die, maybe. When I bought my first set of FOA for the rear, they came with a spacer to make up the difference between the 15mm bolt

and the 1/2" bolt, not so on this order, so I found the extra spacers from my first order, cut them to size and finished the installation. If I hadn't saved the spacers from my first order,

I don't think I could have finished the job, extra washers would not have done the job. FOA, you need to have these spacers for buggies that have the 15mm bolts for mounting shocks.

The other thing about how these mount, and I think I like it, is that they don't squash the shock mounts in on the sides of the shock.

I got a call from them the next day and the method they said to use was get some 1/2" washers and weld them on the out of the mounting brackets, I think I would use some more substantial than washers. I think you will have the same problem with any of the other brands of shocks also. Also, since Joyners make up such a small percentage of their business, stocking the shims doesn't really make sense.

Here's is the first of several photos of how I mounted my shocks,

and the last of several which shows how I ended up mounting the reservoirs.

(FYI) The Blue box is where I carry my tools and spare parts.

PS. My rear shocks are still doing just fine and I expect my fronts to work just as well, I'm ordering a couple of sets of their shims so I can dial the rebound and compression dampening in after I see how the current valving works.

[rocmoc]

Had the same problem with Fox. I weld the holes closed and redrilled.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Kinarfi]

Took the new shock for a ride today upMary Ellen Gulch, I am impressed, they are direct bolt in except for the mount hole, as noted. I'm happy with them, very happy!!!!!

http://travel.websho...583118836BfphkV

[nocturnalsixer]

Your new shocks are oil filled coilovers right? Im asking because i thought i see you in air shocks thread as well

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Kinarfi]

Your new shocks are oil filled coilovers right? Im asking because i thought i see you in air shocks thread as well

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

oil filled, coil over with reservoir, FOA 2.0, 6", light/medium valving in both direction with 200# 14 springs

I was asking about air shocks, but what I had in mind was those that are designed to give extra lift when you have more load, like what you would put on a truck

[2scoops]

Decided to add to existing thread rather than start new one,

I got my new FOA shocks on and started out to give them and try and my wife says, "let's go eat first" , so we did, started raining as we ate and by the time we got back home, we were wet! the only real test so far was a speed bump, but I was impressed, by it, more soon, as it's supposed to rain tomorrow and help put out our 8 wild fires burning here in Utah. I will post an update after I have driven on them.

Ordered online on 06-18-2012($563.25)(I over paid by $40.00 because I ordered 2.5s instead of 2.0), received shocks 07-12-2012, received springs 07-13-2012 and finished mounting and cleaning up around 5:00 and went to eat. I had one issue with the way they mount and sent the following message to FOA,

I just bought a set of FOA shocks for the front of my Trooper because I think I get a good shock for a good price and I can tear them down and do my own revalving and maintenance.

Here's the problem, the bolts holding our shock on are 15mm and so is the hole in the shock mount. If I put a 1/2" bolt in the 15mm hole, the bolt moves up and down and wears the

hole out until the mount breaks, I crash and I die, maybe. When I bought my first set of FOA for the rear, they came with a spacer to make up the difference between the 15mm bolt

and the 1/2" bolt, not so on this order, so I found the extra spacers from my first order, cut them to size and finished the installation. If I hadn't saved the spacers from my first order,

I don't think I could have finished the job, extra washers would not have done the job. FOA, you need to have these spacers for buggies that have the 15mm bolts for mounting shocks.

The other thing about how these mount, and I think I like it, is that they don't squash the shock mounts in on the sides of the shock.

I got a call from them the next day and the method they said to use was get some 1/2" washers and weld them on the out of the mounting brackets, I think I would use some more substantial than washers. I think you will have the same problem with any of the other brands of shocks also. Also, since Joyners make up such a small percentage of their business, stocking the shims doesn't really make sense.

Here's is the first of several photos of how I mounted my shocks,

and the last of several which shows how I ended up mounting the reservoirs.

(FYI) The Blue box is where I carry my tools and spare parts.

PS. My rear shocks are still doing just fine and I expect my fronts to work just as well, I'm ordering a couple of sets of their shims so I can dial the rebound and compression dampening in after I see how the current valving works.

I drilled my stock holes out to 5/8" and bought some spacers with 5/8" outer and 1/2" inner. Cut them to fit--vvwwaalllaa!. You need spacers to center the shock between the mounts anyways, so it does both for you--allows you to use a 1/2" bolt and centers the shock.

[bigdan120]

Hey does anyone have a 1 good rear shock for a T2 there willing to part with...Mine blew on the oil side....Dang it..........Thanks......!

[charlie]

hey big dan

I have a shock I am willing to part with just got new fox air shocks waiting to install. Send me a pm lets figure out how to pay for shipping and I will send it to you the end of the week or by monday if that works for you lifes a little crazy right now thats why I said end of nxt week or monday. Shocks are fine no leaks little dirty. let me know

[bigdan120]

MIne was fine until I softened up the suspension and didn't think about the small rock chips on the rod at the end...Ripped the oil seal.....Dang it.....