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By JimG
Recently, my unit Axis 500 (2020) will only go into reverse and neutral. I am not able to get high or low. The engine itself sounds fine and I do not have other issues on this unit. I change the engine oil but have not yet changed the gear oil.
Before this happened I occasionally encountered issue where going from reverse to high gear, it would grind some and i had to reposition to shift into high gear. I also for last couple weeks heard a squeaking sound. I couldn't tell what it was. Was looking for a grease point I missed.
The unit has around 70 hours and is kept in the garage.
Anyone else encounter this type of scenario? Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks.
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By Alien10
I use my Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers), for general work around my 10 acres of hilly land. Hauling firewood, some dirt and mulch, and debris clean up. Also felling dead standing trees in the woods and hauling rounds out to the barn for splitting/stacking.
Here's my question: Those who use their UTVs with towed drag implements or snow plows, have you noticed any issues with early clutch slippage or failures? Or premature belt wear? Other drive line issues??
Thanks in advance for any experienced thoughts and comments.
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By Texjpr
2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Josh5696
So I've got a 2022 Axis 500 UTV with only 50 miles on the odometer. It seems to have a strange grinding/squeeling noise coming from the clutch when decelerating or going down hill at lower speeds. Did some research, and found out this is apparently a fairly common thing. Alot of sources suggest the one way bearing is responsible. I'm hearing about quite a few horror stories about these bearings going bad on practically new machines, and when they replace the bearing it goes bad again shortly after.
Has anyone come up with a solid fix for this? I've read it may be possible to run the UTV without the bearing at all, is that true? Are the $20 replacement bearings from eBay and Amazon complete garbage, and is there a better one way bearing out there that's built stronger? Is there something else causing this bearing to wear out faster, or is the stock bearing complete junk?
Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
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