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By FDWT9956
I am putting a new primary and secondary clutch into a 2021 Sector 750. It is rarely used, only 350 miles, brought brand new and lost the CVT belt and I can't figure out why. In the first picture is the primary I removed.
I received the new primary and it has a retaining ring around the outer edge. Does this make a difference?
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
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By BMurph
Hi everyone. I am new here to the forum and am excited to learn from all of you with more experience than me with UTVs. Our Axis750 we use on the hobby farm started to have some issues going into gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and completely stopped as required with these machines. I thought it was the linkage and adjusted it to where it is accurately shifting with the engine off and key in the on position. I start the engine and it won't shift gears (yes foot is on the brake). I thought maybe it was the shift lever teeth so I opened the assembly and this picture shows what I just found. I assume this means the wet clutch would need replaced too while draining and flushing the oil. What else should I consider or be looking at? Any idea what could cause this? I don't see visible leaks or cracks in the system anywhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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