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By Greg Kilgore
Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted.
Plumbing parts list.
10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
1 3/4" PEX ball valve
1 1" PEX ball valve
5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.
Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.
The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees
Wide view of the plumbing.
The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.
I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months
Kilgore.
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By mark walkom
the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
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By Chucky 1
I purchased a new 2023 Landmaster UTV L4 in October of 2023. UTV didn't seem to have as much power of the demo L4 that I drove but figured once it broke in it would be better. After about a week the unit started bogging down backfiring and stopping. Gas fumes really bad, wait a few minutes and it would start up again. Brought it back to the dealer and after keeping it for a few weeks said he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Got it back home and it started acting up again, brought it back to dealer a week later and he said he found couple things that might cause it to do run bad and he was able to replicate the issue but didn't really know what was wrong. Got it back home again after being at dealer for several weeks and the unit started running bad again right away. Brought it back to dealer and he went back and forth with Kohler about possible fixes but just checked somethings and try to swap a few parts but still runs bad. I called Landmaster HQ to speak with someone about a refund and was told that was handled at the dealer level. Dealer called Landmaster and they told him they didn't do refunds or exchanges especially with units that had problems. The dealer is now trying to get a new engine to but I have not heard anything as of yet. I did file complaint with Better Business Bureau and they accepted my claim and reached out to Landmaster. The National Service Manager called me and said the he had been contacted by the BBB about the complaint and he would look into it. I told him that I would just like to have my down payment of $2,000.00 returned and never mind the over $1,000.00 I have paid in notes for a UTV that I cannot even ride on without hoping it gets me around the neighborhood. I have found out that the 2024 Landmaster UTVs will have Vanguard engines due to issues with the Kohler engines. Very disappointed in what is "Proudly Made in the USA" and the way Landmaster has treated this disabled veteran!
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By Paul in Wisconsin
I have a 2023 Tracker 800SX LE that I want to add a sway bar to.
The service manual shows how to remove and reinstall the sway bar.
I called Cabela's to try and get the saw bar. They said they can't get one and the 800SX doesn't have one!!?? Then why is it listed in the service manual?? No answer from them.
Have any of you found a saw bar that fits and what did it cost?
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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