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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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By BernieG
I could really use some help identifying some disconnected components on a Yard Sport YS400. The first part is this pipe, which comes out of the exhaust port area or the cylinder. It looks like it had a piece of rubber hose on it, but the hose is gone, and I have no idea what it was previously connected to.
The second item is this vacuum valve looking thing. Again only one line is still attached. What is it's function and what other lines should be connected to it?
The last thing is this hose, which exits the side top of the fuel tank (not the fuel line hose) but is not connected to anything
Any help the community could provide would be greatly appreciated. This UTV belongs to a friend, and I am trying to help him get it running correctly for his kids.
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By donny
Hey everyone new to forum I have a 2014 Odes raider and a 2009 Suzuki Ozark 250 both down atm 😔
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