Quantcast
Jump to content


Gauges flashing


Recommended Posts

HI, I have a textron stampede 900x  & my gauges were flashing on & off intermittently also headlights occasionally. Somewhere I saw to check grounds there are at least 3 .Well the one right of the negative battery terminal was loose,so I wiggle the cables a little bolt head for ground to frame broke off no effort. must have been over torqued from factory. Check those ground it's easy to do. Only problem is bolt thread was broken off in frame, easy fix, get a self tapping screw about 1/8" in diameter and drill it into frame. You have to use the heavy duty ones,like roofers use. I sanded the frame a little also . It could leave you stranded so check them.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Isaac
      I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it.  It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me 
    • By mac66
      Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet.  Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price.  Just curious.
      Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
      So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
    • By Ronald
      Check engine light comes on after engine runs continuously for 5 minutes or so.  I can shut down the engine and restart and check engine light goes out, then comes back on after running 5 minutes or so?  What ya think?
    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


×
×
  • Create New...