Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, let me tell you my experience. I bought a new Odes Comrade. All was fine for about the first 10 hours, then I noticed it was popping back through the intake. Took it to the dealer twice for that. Then, it left me in the woods, I had to call someone to come get me. Took it to the dealer. He found that the battery ground, was attached against a plastic battery box, and was reliant to the bolt to go to the frame. The mechanic moved it to another location. I went back to the woods. It was still popping back through the intake. After I was through hunting, a week later, I carried it back to the dealer and told him no hurry, but when I picked it up, I wanted it fixed. A month later, he called and said he had done all he could do. He said the factory could offer no help, and that there was not any way to go into the computer and adjust the fuel mixture. He had changed the fuel pump, injector, the electronics and tried several heat ranges of spark plugs. He called to other dealerships, and in the end, they told him, that engine just did that, and there was nothing that could be done with that. I picked it up and emailed Odes, telling them what was going on, and I wanted my money back. Mike Smith first, tried to tell me that I had voided the warranty by changing my own oil. He finally said he would send a factory mechanic, with a fully stocked truck, tools and instruments, to repair the unit. 10 days later, a man showed up in an old car with a back pack of tools and a cardboard box full of parts. He worked on it several hours, and said it was fixed. They told me he had put the 3rd fuel pump and injector on it, replaced the electronic brain again, put a new key switch in it, and changed the spark plug. When I got there, it was worst than it had ever been. I would start and die., start and die, and on the third time, it would stay running. It did this every time it had set up for several hours. Oncfe it was running, it was pooping back through the intake, plus, it was now back firing through the muffler. I began to demand my money back or I was going to file lemon law. This unit also had headlights that would not adjust right, It pulled to the right, plus, it was delivered to me with almost 30 psi air in the back right hand tire. I did not notice the tire, until it was extremely worn, I was told it was ready to go, when I picked it up. Who would have thought they had not checked the tire air pressure. Odes would not replace the tire, and I had to pay for it. Odes would do nothing about the front end pulling so bad, and the mechanic could not adjust it out of it. It took a lot it?of emails and arguing, but Mike Smith finally agreed to refund the invoice amount, and my dealer had already said he would refund every cent I had spent. Well, Mike Smith drug his feet, made excuses, but finally did send the money to the dealer, who gave it to me. BUT, the dealer then reneged on his statement to refund every penny I had spent. He would not refund even 1 cent of the mark up. First he claimed that he thought Odes was going to refund it, then, he explained that Odes had not paid for 1 minute of the labor, that his mechanic had put into it. I told him that was between him and the dealer, but no consumer anywhere, was every expected to pay for warranty repairs. I tried to negotiate with the man, but he would not budge. Monday, if he has not contacted me with something, I am filing in Small Claims Court. There is not one competent business man out there, who would expect the manufacturer to refund the dealer markup. That does not even make good nonsense. 

Does anyone want to buy a rear factory tire, for the Comrade, with about 2 miles on it?

I do not recommend Odes or Mike Smith, to anyone. If they would have manned up and replaced the unit with another, or just refunded my money with out a fight, or if they had competent service people to help you, I would not feel this way. Heck, when trying to find out what specific engine oil to use, one of them told me to use GL5, which is 90 weight rear end lube. I can't make this stuff up. 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

When an engine backfires through the intake or exhaust, the FIRST things I would check is compression.  I would expect it to be low due to possible intake and/or exhaust valve not seating or the valve timing has skipped a tooth on the timing belt.  A second possibility is ignition timing - firing before the intake valve has closed.  Changing  your own oil voids your warranty?  They're looking for a scapegoat for their ineptness.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/21/2019 at 7:17 PM, Dan B said:

When an engine backfires through the intake or exhaust, the FIRST things I would check is compression.  I would expect it to be low due to possible intake and/or exhaust valve not seating or the valve timing has skipped a tooth on the timing belt.  A second possibility is ignition timing - firing before the intake valve has closed.  Changing  your own oil voids your warranty?  They're looking for a scapegoat for their ineptness.

No joke about the oil change. Mike Smith himself said that. The dealer changed spark plugs(several heat ranges), adjusted the valves, changed the switch, injection computer, fuel pump,. injector, plug wire, we moved the battery ground, and other stuff, but nothing helped. The lack of factory help is a big no-no. Just try to find a phone number to call someone. And if you find one, don't cross your fingers waiting for them to answer. They are a small company with a big mouth. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/12/2019 at 1:17 AM, Chick Collins said:

What has been your experience with Odes, Mike Smith or the Comrade?

Not worth a damn and bikes are junk there that's my 2 cents on the matter 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

My experience so far has been ok, not as good as a Hisun but for the money not to bad.

However, I didn't receive an operation manual for the radio, Aoveise AV 731,

If any one has a copy they are willing to email to me, I would in their debt for ever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By NC4wd
      Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.
    • By Poppateets
      I just purchased a used 2023 Massimo warrior UTV SxS 1000mx with 600 miles on it. I didn't even get a full day of riding and the driver's side rear axle broke. I'm pretty sure it was already going bad because we would hear a noise once in a while. I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems with theirs. Also looking for places to buy accessories.
    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
      Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping.  If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
       

×
×
  • Create New...