Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have the rear diff out, have cut all the brakets off the frame. I am lowering the diff 2". This is something that romoc and i have talked about. I have 29 inch tires all the way around so this should give me some good ground clearance. I also have the fuel tank out, it is going to work to get a sump to draw from in the midle of the tank.

Posted

Very koool Flatbed! Keep track of how much time it takes to do each part of the mod if you would please. Also any little tricks or tips! This is great!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Sounds good, Don't forget to take lots of photos, I assume you're have some welding done on your tank and I would really like to see what you do so that when I get my new tank, I have some ideas on how the modify it before I install it. I did see that it can be mounted higher than it is giving it more room underneath it for what ever mods we make.

Jeff

Posted

On the rear diff, the brackets to hold the diff have been built and welded in, (4 tabs and 2 pieces of 1 1/2 seemless tubing 180 wall). I cut both the stock brackets and tube off plus the reciever hitch. You can only lower the diff to about the bottom of the frame. The key is you have to be able to get the bolt out of the diff on the front mount by the drive line. when installing the rear-end you want the driveline hooked up before you start tabing it in. I have it so that the bolt will just miss the frame.

P S I recomend not doing this when your better half is around, This is a fairley new car and they might not understand the whole ass-end of the car being cut off. I had some explaining to do.

Posted

Fortunately, my better 3/4s is use to me modifying anything and everything we have. It is like Tool Time around here, more power. She does not even ask what I am doing, waits tell the end and provides her opinion. 99% of the time she is pleased. The purple walls in my Man Cave is in that 1%, three years and she still tells me she doesn't like it.

Thanks for the details,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
Fortunately, my better 3/4s is use to me modifying anything and everything we have. It is like Tool Time around here, more power. She does not even ask what I am doing, waits tell the end and provides her opinion. 99% of the time she is pleased. The purple walls in my Man Cave is in that 1%, three years and she still tells me she doesn't like it.

Thanks for the details,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

The purple walls in my Man Cave -- makes me think of the movie Failure to Launch and Terry Bradshaw's "special" room. :lol:

You don't do any thing like that do you? and I don't want to know!! :blink:

Posted

I am trying to figure out if i want to put the extra baracing on the rear diff mounts, the new tubing i used was some good stuff and i made the tabs shorter so there is not as much leverage on them. I think what i am going to do is run a 3rd mount so the diff is suported in 3 spots instead of 2 like they are stock, I will also save weight this way. My fuel tank that is under the seat had a bracket cracked on it. The brackets should be re-inforced with a strut on the top side of the bracket, I will also put some rubber inbetween the mounts for fibration.

Posted

I agree with three mounts. Spread the weight & any impacts hopefully reducing any chance of cracking or damaging the diff in the future. I even thought about adding a rubber washer in between the diff and mount something like you would find on a motorcycle gas tank.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

I have modified the fuel tank under the seat, what i did was put a new sump in the middle of the tank, it is 1 1/2 inch lower with the suction and return line returning to it. Drilled 6 3/4" holes in the tank where the sump is, the sump is 8" x 8". One thing that i noticed is that the two rear mounts hold all the weigth of the tank so i moved those mounts rearward as far back on the tank as i could. I will take some pictures and figure out how to show them to you guys. Has anybody had a rear-end apart, it is no problem doing it since i have it out, just wondering if i should take it apart and have a look.

Posted

When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

Posted
When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

Good idea Kinarfi, count me in.

Cheers Mike.

Posted
When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

I like this idea also, one day I will get brave to make some mods and such. After a year or so with the quad my wife would find me in the back patio with parts everywhere, and ask what are you doing. Good question because I really didn't know, but after enough times you kind of get the hang of it. I hope to make some with the Trooper, and I definently can provide pics of what not to do the first time.

Posted

Finished relocating the rear diff. the diff is now even withthe bottom of the frame. I removed the lower shock mount and put a suport across so that the shock mount was leval. (my shock mounts where giving up) I put them back in the same spot, but raised them about 3/8 of a inch.

Took the rear diff apart to see the inside, i was surprised to see that it is actually a pretty good part. The pion gear has alot of teeth so you are ingageing more that one tooth into the ring geaar. It has roller bearing on both sides of the ring gear carrier. The locker works with a slide colar. There are no gaskets, they use o-rings in the case halfs. The outer seals on the axle shafts could be replaced with out taking the case out of the car.

The fuel tank is also back in the trooper. It has a new sump in the middle of the tank on the bottom. Both suction and return are mounted there. It is in a baffled area so that the return is feeding the suction when you are in a bad spot. One thing i noticed after i got everything back together on the fuel system is that it would not prime its self untill i bleed the suction line, then it picked the fuel right up. My pump is laying flat and i am wondering if it needs to be stood up so the air gets out.

I have pictures of all of this and will get it mounted.

Posted

Fuel tanks, When the brackets on my fuel tank broke, I floated on styrofoam, blocked it with wood, padded it with plastic and in general lost it's ground (electrical) so I ran a clip from frame to to the filter clamp, this corrected some problems I was having with my gas gauge and also drains off any static charges that may develop. Still waiting for my new tank.

Flatbed, did you take any photos of your fuel tank modifications?

Thanks

Jeff

Posted

4x4x454,

more upright will decrease the amount of travel available. The angle is how Joyner gets the spec'd travel out of a 5" travel shock. motocross bikes went thu this evolution many years ago. upright to angle to mono, all for more travel and better handling.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By CRV
      Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help  ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !! 
      Again Howdy brothers & sisters

    • By GaryC
      Unfortunately my rear Diff housing cracked on my 2013 and I need to replace it or find a good used complete differential.  I think the same one was used from 2013-2016?  Any help or referrals appreciated.  Thanks, Gary  (949)370-2575 (in UT)
×
×
  • Create New...