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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Alex
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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By Retired Plumber
The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
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By great8redsfan
Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power. They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm.
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