Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Lenny
Posted
Lenny, does the $90/diff include shipping? Do you take MasterCard? (LOL!) I will take TWO for my Trooper.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Yes on the shipping and no on the Master card. Also just found 12.9 metric grade bolts. I'll be using them instead of 10.9.

Thanks

Lenny

Guest Lenny
Posted
Lenny I want one for my front and rear I will need written instructions on how to properly set up my diff pm me with address and how much I need to send you

Will do and will send instructions when I get them done. Will wait until I get my supplies and get my dif done. Want do pics of process with instructions. It will probably take a week or so to pull everything together.

thanks

Lenny

Guest Lenny
Posted
How about PayPal for the money?

PayPal is fine. Wait until I get everything pulled together. I keep everybody informed.

thanks

Lenny

Posted

Lenny, no hurry. I'm not going to have time to work on the trans until July/Aug so the diffs are after that. Just let me know when you are ready. You know I was kidding about the MasterCard but I will take you up on the PayPal. Do you have an installed price, not kidding?

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Guest Lenny
Posted
Lenny, no hurry. I'm not going to have time to work on the trans until July/Aug so the diffs are after that. Just let me know when you are ready. You know I was kidding about the MasterCard but I will take you up on the PayPal. Do you have an installed price, not kidding?

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Ya, I can install the kit. Price is $23,465.00. How many do you need done. I'll be glad to drop any and all of my important obligations and projects and jump right to it. Sorry, truthfully, I pretty well keep myself covered up. Don't have the time nor do I really care to get that involved. Don't worry about me getting the kits too quick. Already bogged down in finding sources for everything. Close though. Before I send any out, I have to do mine and document all the steps with lots of pics. Have mocked mine up with quickly machined temperary spacers and like what I see but can't run it wih these. The kit will have a good selection of mix and match spacers so everybody can set up to the clearance they prefer. The instructons will show what clearances I am using for mine and what I feel is a good choice. But please keep in mind that I'm not a differential specialist but this diff doesn't take a specialist to dramatically improve it.

Thanks anyway for the installation offer.

Lenny

Posted

Lenny you made me chuckle. Where in the world did you come up with that number, $444.44 would have been enough. I know what your are saying about being buried in projects, that's why the Trooper is sitting in the garage still broken from Moab. I have projects with parts I bought over 10 years ago that have not even been started and I work on something everyday.

Take care and holler when you're ready,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Hey Rocmoc, I'll give you a good deal and come do it for 1/2 that amount, I don't mean $222.22 :D , I'll take my front diff out and do all the work on it and then bring it and my new diff down and replace yours.

Looks like I finally get to see for myself if the front and back diffs have the same gears, Pictures when I take them.

Kinarfi

Posted

Kinarfi, two for $222.22! I am sure Lenny's instructions will be super along with pics and your pics should be easy. Finding time is the hard part. Currently I am rebuilding the wall between the garage & the living area in the Toyhauler. After 55,000+ miles, she was coming apart. Will finish this morning then I have to start working on the roof the the house for monsoon season. It never ends!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Kinarfi, two for $222.22! That's not what I said :lol::D and you know it!!!!!! But yes, it's not to tough of a job and we'll have lots of picts

Sorry for the edit. Kinarfi

Posted
Kinarfi, two for $222.22! I am sure Lenny's instructions will be super along with pics and your pics should be easy. Finding time is the hard part. Currently I am rebuilding the wall between the garage & the living area in the Toyhauler. After 55,000+ miles, she was coming apart. Will finish this morning then I have to start working on the roof the the house for monsoon season. It never ends!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Kinarfi, two for $222.22! That's not what I said :lol::D and you know it!!!!!! But yes, it's not to tough of a job and we'll have lots of picts

Sorry for the edit. Kinarfi

Posted

Hey kinarfi when you talked to the guy at Joyner did he give you any insight to what they might be doing to

upgrade their diffs ? Or are we on our own to do our own mods. <_<

Posted
Hey kinarfi when you talked to the guy at Joyner did he give you any insight to what they might be doing to

upgrade their diffs ? Or are we on our own to do our own mods. <_<

Not really, but when I opened my new one and it had the same potential problems, I figure do and overdo what I can and hopefully, when I button it up this time, It will last as long as the one in my GMC Yukon. :rolleyes: He did say to try and find what he called Jet Bolts, actually made for use in Jet engines which are super tough and have the heads whittled down to save weight, I've worked around some of the engines and know what he's talking about, just can't find them. That little screw felt like it had been tighten with a shirt pocket screw driver and maybe they didn't even hit the slot. I know it caused a fair share my damage. I do think what Lenny's coming up with will make things a lot tougher and durable. I can't recommend strongly enough to open your cases and check them out. a neat thing I did to get the cases to split is pump air in through vent pipe, pops it apart a good 1/4" or so.

Kinarfi

Posted

2697721350104282158IBUdoA_th.jpg

Added a few more photos kind of like exploded views with some comments added into the photos of some things I did. Still need to do some photos of the spider set up and how they go together and sometimes, unfortunately, come apart because that little screw isn't tight enough and lock tited. Quit Preaching Kinarfi

Guest Lenny
Posted
2697721350104282158IBUdoA_th.jpg

Added a few more photos kind of like exploded views with some comments added into the photos of some things I did. Still need to do some photos of the spider set up and how they go together and sometimes, unfortunately, come apart because that little screw isn't tight enough and lock tited. Quit Preaching Kinarfi

The differential cone that houses the 4 little pinion gears is a soft machined steel. This means its mallable so where the large head is of the shaft holding the 1st 2 pinion gears, I'm going to use a center punch and punch it about 1/16" out from the hole edge to deform the hole. I'll do this in about 4 spots. Once done, the shaft cannot come out. To remove later, drive the head past the punch formations and it will come out OK. The little set screw on mine doesn't hit the groove in the pin. Catches it right on the edge of the groove so when I tighten it, it draws the pin too far to that side as the screw tries to get centered in the groove. This locked up the gears so I decided to eliminate the screw and go with the guarnteed punch deformation way. If you do this, make sure you punch deep enough so the deformed steel is clearly projecting into the hole, obstructing the pin head to prevent slide out. Don't get carried away but don't worry if you punch it a little too deep and the gears won't turn, just tap it a couple of times on the other end and it will let go of the gear binding.

So far, I havn't found a bolt, that is supposed to pass into or through a grove or slot, that actually is in the right place on my Trooper. Maybe we should export eye glasses to China. Maybe we could require that they work only with one hand, seeing as one hand doesn't seem to know where the other hand has put something.

Lenny

Posted

You know this is so F@%$ed up that they would not take care of it for you. I hate to say it but I am starting to get discouraged. I only got it last August put about 500 kilometers on it and the fuel tank broke now the diff. I waited 6 months for a tank now the rear diff thing if I have to get a new one it will be at least another 6 months. I think I will be calling Joyner again tomorrow and give them both barrels.

Guest Lenny
Posted
You know this is so F@%$ed up that they would not take care of it for you. I hate to say it but I am starting to get discouraged. I only got it last August put about 500 kilometers on it and the fuel tank broke now the diff. I waited 6 months for a tank now the rear diff thing if I have to get a new one it will be at least another 6 months. I think I will be calling Joyner again tomorrow and give them both barrels.

Bring an extra shell on my behalf. Hang in there. Were getting through the majority of the Troopers problems with good fixes. This machine is not for everybody, you better be willing and able to make some changes. That said, I like the Trooper. I think it has a lot of potential and I feel a lot safer in it then I would with any of the others. The Trooper is IMHO more stable by far. However the others are fine machines.

Lenny

Guest Lenny
Posted
Im in for both diffs if your still making this "kit"

Have the bolts but still struggling to find all the required shims. Will keep you informed. Just need more time.

Thanks

Lenny

Posted
Have the bolts but still struggling to find all the required shims. Will keep you informed. Just need more time.

Thanks

Lenny

Not a problem, work is hectic so I dont have the time for the Joyner (or the lawn, or the basement... new hot tub... upstairs washroom... ugh, it keeps piling up )

Posted
You know this is so F@%$ed up that they would not take care of it for you. I hate to say it but I am starting to get discouraged. I only got it last August put about 500 kilometers on it and the fuel tank broke now the diff. I waited 6 months for a tank now the rear diff thing if I have to get a new one it will be at least another 6 months. I think I will be calling Joyner again tomorrow and give them both barrels.

Did Joyner ever call you back?

Posted

For those who had your diffs go, were there any indicators or forewarning of a problem? Now that I have secured my rear end I seem to hear grinding noises on occasion. Haven't determined if it is the diff or CV's.

Guest Lenny
Posted
For those who had your diffs go, were there any indicators or forewarning of a problem? Now that I have secured my rear end I seem to hear grinding noises on occasion. Haven't determined if it is the diff or CV's.

If all you did was to resecure it by better tightening the mounting bolts, that won't be enough. Rather you had any prior trouble or not, you need to take both diffs apart and upgrade them to the stronger better fitting bolts and bring gear clearance tolerances closer. The rear diff is propably the most important to do first as it gets used much more then the front. I'll have a kit for doing just that but It will be a bit before I get it pulled together. About a month. Read through all the prior post of this thread and you will see that there are a few things that could cause a scraping noise in the diff if that is where the noise is comming from. When I took my rear diff apart, the input pinion gear was chipped on the very outter edge of the teeth. After studying it, I've concluded that this was caused by the pinion gear being too close in towards the center of the big ring gear. Even though there was still up and down slop clearance between the gear teeth, the outter bigger part of the pinion gear teeth were engaging the ring gear in from the outter edge of its teeth rather then at it's outter edge where it should be. The more you move torwards the center of the ring gear, the teeth get closer together. With this miss alignment, the outter very corner of the pinion gear teeth were taking all the pressure and thus eventually started braking off.

Lenny

Posted

Well I guess I better sign up for your upgrade too then if you haven't filled the quota yet. I was going to let warrany solve the problem but I have a feeling they won't be as thourogh as your remedy. When the time comes maybe you can make one Canadian shipment to cut down on brokerage fees.

Posted

I will mention: After we broke the rear drive at Moab, we had to drive back to town with only the front drive. Never hear it before when in 4wd, but I was getting a clunking sound when I was letting off the gas and applying the gas. Makes me suspicious after reading Lenny's thread.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Tejun
      Neighbor rode their Coleman with the park brake apparently not fully released. Needless to say, things got pretty hot and even started smoking and the smoke was definitely gear oil smell. Looks like oil is coming from the area just behind the disc for the park break. Looking at parts diagram, there is an oring behind the nut/washer that attaches the flange to pinion shaft. I'm not finding anything on YT that would help with disassembly. Anyone have some experience with removing rear driveshaft ?
    • By bms stallion owner
      hello, my BMS Stallion 600 is having accleration issues. the manual fails to show final gear oil diagrams very well... I have the owners manual and suspect issue is associated to transmission , I want to check the level of the gearoil. I located a drain plug (but not the fill plug nor dipstick). It will run - but wont exceede 2mph. Troubleshooting suggestions or comprehensive manual suggestions? Thanks
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By GaryC
      Unfortunately my rear Diff housing cracked on my 2013 and I need to replace it or find a good used complete differential.  I think the same one was used from 2013-2016?  Any help or referrals appreciated.  Thanks, Gary  (949)370-2575 (in UT)
    • By lowgear52
      Has anyone purchased a rear differential from Alibaba, they want $432.00 for diff and $35.00 for shipping. This would be a great deal if I can trust them any thoughts?



×
×
  • Create New...