Doug Eichner Brings Home WORCS UTV National Championship
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By Browner010
Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks
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By Mater Help
I have a 2019 Bennche Warrior that I mostly use around my property for odd jobs. I also cruise the neighborhood and make short runs to the local pub and neighbors houses. The exhaust system is super loud. I was hoping to find something that will fit and work that is quieter. I have included a photo of the system that is on the unit now. Any ideas or recommendations?
Second question: Recently, it has become hard to shift from park to any gear if the engine is running. The shifter moves fine if the engine is off. It is almost as if the clutch (no pedal) is not disengaging completely. I have not tried to do anything to correct the condition yet but as it gets increasingly more difficult, I need to do something. Looking for a place to start. Nothing in the service manual that I can find.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
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By great8redsfan
Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power. They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm.
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By BOYD
I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
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By res2fr
I have an issue and I'm hoping that someone can help with a little Wisdom. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU500 UTV that blew a time chain while out riding. It has been torn down to replave the chain and Sprocket amount other things that will be renewed. The problem comes in with setting Top Dead Center on the motor. The Manuals all teel one to line up hash marks on the flywheel with a point on the side cover under what's referred to in several place as a manhole cover. Its a large headed cap/bolt that unscrews and allows you to view the edge of the flywheel. There are hash marks on the flywheel that your supposed to turn the crank until you get the proper alignment between a certain hash mark and a reference point on the Case. Problem is there is NO reference point on the case there. I also have another 2016 MSU500 and a 2014 Coleman 500. Not one of these machines have a reference mark of any kind in that location. (I have pictures if needed)
I know I can use the old pull the valve covers and rotate the crank and rely on getting the right point where Both Intake and Exhaust valves are closed at hopefully the correct point in the piston stroke. Is there any other reference point that could be used for this or is this the only thing left to use for finding TDC? Gotta Love documentation that doesn't match the equipment it's supposed to be for, any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if just to tell me that's about my only option.
Thanks to all who even take the time to read my rambling question.
Robert
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