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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Gorj
I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit! Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches. Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk. That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable. There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut. Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
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By Mike McDonald
I have a 2014 Intimidator and need brake pads and calipers. The price for pads and rotors are outrageous through the dealer. I have heard Intimidator used the brake assembly from a compact car when first building these UTVs.
• Can anyone tell me of a less expensive source to buy brakes for Intimidators from, or
• Can anyone furnish information on what make and model vehicle Intimidator used their brakes from?
Thanks so much for any support you can provide me on this topic.
Mike
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By Michigan sport.
I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement. I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution.
Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
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By Greg Kilgore
This started back in the summer.
While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape.
So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal.
Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process.
Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back.
What do you guys think. Could it be something else.
I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again.
Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.
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