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By Greg Kilgore
This started back in the summer.
While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape.
So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal.
Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process.
Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back.
What do you guys think. Could it be something else.
I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again.
Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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By felo72
Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
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