Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking to purchase a 2015 Massimo 550 that might have an issue with it's throttle position sensor.   

From the fella selling this UTV, he claims its to set the idle on fuel injection because the engine will not stay idle or when it starts sometimes it idles too high.

My Question if anyone had any issues with their Massimo 550 and if it was actually the TPS or something else that would allow the machine to idle correctly.

Thanks!

 

Posted
On 12/16/2024 at 3:54 PM, TexAcoon said:

I'm looking to purchase a 2015 Massimo 550 that might have an issue with it's throttle position sensor.   

From the fella selling this UTV, he claims its to set the idle on fuel injection because the engine will not stay idle or when it starts sometimes it idles too high.

My Question if anyone had any issues with their Massimo 550 and if it was actually the TPS or something else that would allow the machine to idle correctly.

Thanks!

 

7

Posted

Hi I am curious to find out what you end up with I have a Coleman 550 which as I understand is basically the same engine and I have the same problem but I've been told it's the injector which I've changed 3 or 4 times now, sometimes it helps and sometimes it doesn't. Thanks 

Posted

The TPS does control idle, but other items can cause idle issues, such as a vacuum leak, carbon on the throttle plate and even a timing issue. Unfortunately Massimo doesn't produce detailed trouble shooting information on their UTV's. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Mark ..

Well things ended up changing ...  I went and took a look at it and decided it was a bit smaller than I wanted.   So I ended up buying a Kawasaki Mule 4x4 Trans 4010 ..   with desiel ...  bought it on auction and know it needs some work..  One of those deals you see the pictures but have not physically seen it in person ...  So it should be interesting when I pick it up.

Posted
On 12/20/2024 at 8:13 PM, Jack Angel said:

The TPS does control idle, but other items can cause idle issues, such as a vacuum leak, carbon on the throttle plate and even a timing issue. Unfortunately Massimo doesn't produce detailed trouble shooting information on their UTV's. 

All true.

However TPS can cause a lot if problem especially if someone touched it,  it has that paint on the screw for a reason.

Done many tps, requires expensive probes or y harness to check finite voltage while running... not just static ohm tests work.

A poor battery or voltage regulator can cause the same problems...

If it's EFI and yr boosting it to start it it won't run right.... period. Start simple.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, that guy from Canada said:

All true.

However TPS can cause a lot if problem especially if someone touched it,  it has that paint on the screw for a reason.

Done many tps, requires expensive probes or y harness to check finite voltage while running... not just static ohm tests work.

A poor battery or voltage regulator can cause the same problems...

If it's EFI and yr boosting it to start it it won't run right.... period. Start simple.

 

The tps should be a 5v reference. The voltage will range from .5 to 4.5v when slowly opening and closing the throttle with key on. (Check manual for specific model and voltage reference)

Black probe to ground and red probe to signal wire.

No need for static resistance testing, dynamic testing will reveal the problem.

Hope this helps...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Chucky 1
      I purchased a new 2023 Landmaster UTV L4 in October of 2023.  UTV didn't seem to have as much power of the demo L4 that I drove but figured once it broke in it would be better.  After about a week the unit started bogging down backfiring and stopping.  Gas fumes really bad, wait a few minutes and it would start up again.  Brought it back to the dealer and after keeping it for a few weeks said he couldn't find anything wrong with it.  Got it back home and it started acting up again, brought it back to dealer a week later and he said he found couple things that might cause it to do run bad and he was able to replicate the issue but didn't really know what was wrong.  Got it back home again after being at dealer for several weeks and the unit started running bad again right away.  Brought it back to dealer and he went back and forth with Kohler about possible fixes but just checked somethings and try to swap a few parts but still runs bad.  I called Landmaster HQ to speak with someone about a refund and was told that was handled at the dealer level.  Dealer called Landmaster and they told him they didn't do refunds or exchanges especially with units that had problems.  The dealer is now trying to get a new engine to but I have not heard anything as of yet.  I did file complaint with Better Business Bureau and they accepted my claim and reached out to Landmaster.  The National Service Manager called me and said the he had been contacted by the BBB about the complaint and he would look into it.  I told him that I would just like to have my down payment of $2,000.00 returned and never mind the over $1,000.00 I have paid in notes for a UTV that I cannot even ride on without hoping it gets me around the neighborhood.  I have found out that the 2024 Landmaster UTVs will have Vanguard engines due to issues with the Kohler engines.  Very disappointed in what is "Proudly Made in the USA" and the way Landmaster has treated this disabled veteran! 
    • By Homeowner A
      Have an issue all the sudden where the UTV will cut out randomly mid range throttle and under load.  Light consistent throttle on fairly flat ground no problems.  If you quickly change throttle position sometimes it will bog down and cut out, splutter, etc.  Floor it or let off and it may do just fine.  Going up a hill and adding more throttle as the incline demands, will cut out splutter and smell unburnt fuel.  So far doesn't ever completely quit.  If you let off it will idle just fine.  A lot of times if you floor it, it will pick up and even get a boost of power.  Changed to a slightly hotter plug to see if that would make a difference, but it didn't .  Any ideas what might be going on and what to try next?  
    • By Buddee
      2010 Hisun 500 - Carbed'.  She sat for about 3 weeks since last use.  Couldn't get it started.... has spark but plug was not wet.  Bought new plug, cleaned the carb, confirmed fuel pump (pulse type) is working.  Still nothing.  Put gas in the plug hole.... started right up and idled as normal and drove perfect.  Used it for the rest of the day without issue.  Tried to start again next morning.... same problem.  Poured gas in plug hole again.... started up and best kind again.
      Anyone have any insight to what's going on?
    • By Alien10
      This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 
      A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.
      Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers.  Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each.  Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow.  Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing.  Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever.  With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so.  Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped.  Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely.  Reinstalled skid plate.  Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 
       up.
      Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
       
       
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Jr Perez
      I need help when I put the key in and put to on position the neutral light turns on then shuts off I tried moving the shift linkage but the neutral light won't turn on it only has 651 miles cranks fine 2019 tboss 550
×
×
  • Create New...