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Similar Topics
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By Homeowner A
I've been having misfire issues with my UTV 400 when it gets warm and I've thrown all kinds of parts at it so far with no permanent resolution. Today I removed the O2 sensor and it is black on the end. To me that means it's running rich and/or the sensor isn't working. I replaced the sensor with a new one and will see how it goes I guess. With EFI, I'm wondering why the sensor would be this way with low hours and mileage? Is there a way to adjust or lean out fueling on these? Thanks in advance.
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By CSM_Retired
This is for all of you Kioti Off-Road UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about Kioti Off-Road specific topics including the Kioti Mechron, K9, 2400, and 2440 models.
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By Joe Breaux
Got a 2017 Massimo MSU500 UTV with thermostat malfunction.. hot light comes on in 4-5 minutes but radiator is ice cold... where exactly is it? The hose neck on the head has nothing in it. I was told it was down by oil drain plug.. only thing I see is water pump.. Is in inside pump housing? Cant find any exploded diagrams that show it.. how to I remove it? any help would be appreciated
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By Homeowner A
Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400? I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327. Will not connect. I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since. I was able to clear and read the codes briefly. I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available. There's a few out there but they are expensive.
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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