Performance Modified Suzuki F8B 800cc Engine For Sale -
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By staind
Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM.
I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc.
I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking.
This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever.
thanks Dan D. aka staind
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By boydog40
my subaru gave it up, bought a new Predator 670cc
problems is, wiring the buggy to the new motor, OEM key switch has 5 wires (red, green, yellow, black and brown)
new motor has many more wires than the Subaru and i have no idea what goes where!!!
finding any info on the web is almost impossible to do also
any help will be greatly appreciated!
thanks guys
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By mark walkom
the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
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By Reynolds Rocket
I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4. It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder. It's not fouling out the plug when it happens. Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine. First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place.
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