Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 

A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.

  • Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers. 
  • Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. 
  • Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. 
  • Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. 
  • Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position.
  • Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. 
  • With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. 
  • Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. 
  • Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. 
  • Reinstalled skid plate. 

Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 

 image.thumb.png.5e902e48fb77b3204740805bba418439.pngup.

Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Cletus
      I have a 2016 550, ive tryed the hisun website and seems i cant get parts there. I would like to add power steering, have seen a few "kits" on ebay
      for the 750 not sure if its the same parts needed for the 550, there is a factory bracket already welded to the frame above the standard steering rack, is this to be used
      to mount the eps motor? There is also a grey plug hanging just above the brake master cylinder, not sure if thats anything that needs to be used in the install.
      Handy with wrenches so if i can find the parts installing it shouldnt be a problem, anyone done this upgrade, was it worth it?
    • By TexAcoon
      I'm looking to purchase a 2015 Massimo 550 that might have an issue with it's throttle position sensor.   
      From the fella selling this UTV, he claims its to set the idle on fuel injection because the engine will not stay idle or when it starts sometimes it idles too high.
      My Question if anyone had any issues with their Massimo 550 and if it was actually the TPS or something else that would allow the machine to idle correctly.
      Thanks!
       
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a diagram of all of the grease zerks for a Coleman UT 400?  Mine squeaks like crazy and want to try and remedy it.  
    • By Jr Perez
      I need help when I put the key in and put to on position the neutral light turns on then shuts off I tried moving the shift linkage but the neutral light won't turn on it only has 651 miles cranks fine 2019 tboss 550
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...