Quantcast
Jump to content


Please help 2021 Axis 750 crew won't shift into gear and found milky oil on inspection


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

Axis750.JPG

Posted

Water or coolant has turned the oil into an emulsion.  It looks like tiny water droplets are in there too.  

You should drain all this from the trans and find out where the water or coolant is coming from.

What does the engine oil look like?  Is is clean and clear?

 

Posted

Thanks Alien10, yes engine oil seems clean and clear from the dipstick but I have not drained it yet. I was just getting started with things last night. Because I am not sure if the terminology is different where would you be referring to with draining from transmission side? I don't seem to have a separate drain plug from what I can tell. My manual mentioned a final gear oil and differential oil but nothing referencing a transmission. I just want to make sure I am not missing something on terminology being used so we are speaking the same language. I'll be checking for where water or coolant is coming from when I head out to the shop to take a look at things today.

Posted

Alien10, I think I figured out what you were referring to with your earlier post. Assuming this is what you referenced I am going to drain it shortly and search for the source of water. Is this what is mentioned  as "transmission" above? 

transmission.JPG

Posted

I don't have an Axis machine so am working from just general knowledge.   Follow your shifter cable to where it attaches to the "transmission". In that case, there should be a drain plug and a fill plug.  That will ID the trans case. It is also home of the drive shaft exit that attaches to the forward drive shaft yoke.   I've found that most of these imported machines have manufacturer manuals that are almost useless in many respects.  However, I do know that most utilize a "wet clutch" system similar to motorcycles. Those require a specific type of lube oil designed for wet clutch use.  I believe JASO MA2 is the latest spec these oils meet in order to be wet clutch compatible.   Others here may have better info on this. 

If the drained oil is like the milkshake oil you showed, then you've ID'd the trans case.  You will also need to research what amount of oil it takes and how to verify it is full.  Some just fill until the upper plug hole drips oil.   Do a little research to see what your machine requires. 

 

Posted

Your machine may be different.  My Hisun 550 has this diagram of the transmission plug showing proper oil level at the bottom of the plug hole when machine is level.  I believe my Hisun's wet clutch shares the engine oil so it is important that I use that wet clutch compatible oil in the engine.  That's my understanding of it.  These manuals are not much help.

image.thumb.png.f4da1aa91f32d4fa8c3f67508ecd9b01.png

Posted
On 1/2/2025 at 1:21 PM, Alien10 said:

Your machine may be different.  My Hisun 550 has this diagram of the transmission plug showing proper oil level at the bottom of the plug hole when machine is level.  I believe my Hisun's wet clutch shares the engine oil so it is important that I use that wet clutch compatible oil in the engine.  That's my understanding of it.  These manuals are not much help.

image.thumb.png.f4da1aa91f32d4fa8c3f67508ecd9b01.png

Alien10,

I think this is just the rear differential. The plug is also the speed sensor. It has wires coming out of the plug and a connection for the wires maybe 12 inches from the plug. At least on my axis 500 anyway.

I know on my axis 500 the engine oil is also shared with the transmission. The engine oil is also the oil bath for the wet clutch. At least on the Axis 500.

BMurph,

It is possible that the water was just in the shifter paw cover. Or maybe a previous repair where water got in the oil. The repair was made and it corrected the issue. And the shift paw cover wasn't cleaned. 

Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • By Prepper
      Hello All...
           Just bought a 2014 Massimo 500 UTV.  It;s not running at the moment, but hopefully will soon.  I need a seat for it also (passenger side, if it makes any difference.)  It is a crank-but no start situation.  Just now starting to read the boards for solutions.  Apparently these models are well known for this issue.  If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to chime in, it would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks 
    • By fikey
      I am considering a Hisun 550 for tooling around the farm> I have a Kawasaki Teryx 4 and deeply disappointed at the difficulty of getting to the engine and belt for repairs. I would like some feedback on the Hisun's reliability and ease of access to work on. Thanks.
    • By SayHiToRambo
      08 trooper 1100
      Bit of background. First the machine would take for ever to start. So I adjusted the valve shims into spec and made sure the timing is correct. Starts perfectly now. 
       
      now it fluctuates on idle. Bogs down, Revs up, repeat. I noticed the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 20psi while that happens. It also bogs down at the lower end of each gear, higher rpm seems to be fine. Seems to struggle under load. In neutral it revs up perfectly. 
       
      brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, gas. I noticed on the fuel pressure regulator there’s that vacuum nipple, it’s not attached to anything and I’m not sure where it would go. Possibly the problem? 
       
      Another issue is the tip off the end of the exhaust is broken off, sensor is still attached and connected. Could that cause these issues? 
       
      my next plan was to look into the pressure regulator and voltage to fuel pump while driving. Is there anything I’m missing or any ideas you guys have? 
       
      thanks! 
×
×
  • Create New...