Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Toss some gas or spray some carb cleaner/starting fluid down the carb throat.

spray it where the duct from the air filter goes to the carb. Then try to start it.

if it does fuel is not making it to through the new carb.

next take out the spark plug and spray some carb cleaner or pour a small amount of gas down the hole, put the plug back in. And turn it over.

if none of these give any results  lift the bed and  unplug the coil ground wire, it's right behind the governor linkage. Then try to start it.

if you want I can upload you some troubleshooting  pages from my shop manual to look at.

Next you might try to unhook the fuel line coming from the pump, to the carb, turn the engine over and gas should shoot out of the pump.

one of the least likely options would be to pull the valve cover and  be sure the valves are operating correctly/not out of time. thats a last last resort.

Posted
23 minutes ago, Travis said:

Here is the coil ground wire. Unplug it right there. Black wire

It's next to th oil fill cap. 

IMG_20190818_144239.jpg

On 4/22/2018 at 9:20 PM, Travis said:

As far as I know, no.  Did you look at kawasakipartshouse.com ? O EM parts, but a bit cheaper. I'm rebuilding my 550 now.

What parts were missing? There are quite a few 1000 parts on Ebay.

 

I did find another issue and it started...it does idle good but has a very severe hesitation on acceleration...i did put on a new omw carb. Hardly has enough power to move...any thoughts?

  • Like 1
Posted

It could be sucking air from somewhere, or not getting good fuel flow enough to accelerate. Did you put new gaskets with the carb?

I would also add be sure your choke is fully opening and closing.

Posted

Okay.

If I am not mistaken there is 1 or 2 gaskets that have a small hole in the corner of them that match up with corresponding holes in the carburetor. But I may be totally wrong it's been almost a year since I put the carb on mine.

 

IMG_20190818_154110.jpg

Posted

Yes there is the small gasket in between the engine and plastic spacer..then the main gasket in between carb and plastic spacer...in question.. That 2nd gasket has indentions..which direction do they face...towards engine or carb...

Posted

couldn't resist! Do you have a fuel filter on this model? Could be clogged.  Also any small crack in a fuel line can do bad things.  Does the engine have points and condenser or the newer electronics?

donkey-carrot-300x202.jpg

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Willy M said:

couldn't resist! Do you have a fuel filter on this model? Could be clogged.  Also any small crack in a fuel line can do bad things.  Does the engine have points and condenser or the newer electronics?

donkey-carrot-300x202.jpg

This engine has a ignition coil on the flywheel, no points.

Posted

Its possible, as old as these engines are, (15+)  I would buy a inline spark tester, like one you would use on a Briggs engine,  this is one like i have. you  hook it up to the plug wire, and clip it to ground, or on the spark plug, if you've got a orange, yellow spark, coil is weak, if its blue or white, thats great! another thing could be a faulty spark plug, sometimes under higher pressure (such as revving the engine) the spark wont jump the gap, the plug i use on the 550 is NGK  i BPR5ES. i would also be sure the plug gap is correct, should be 0.028-0.030, you might also try gapping it slight smaller than spec, if your coils weak it wont have enough oomf to jump the gap over high pressure. EDIT: one thing i would do, is when it starts to bog while revving, choke the engine, about 1/4 of the way, then half choke, then about 3/4  of fully choked. if it runs better while being choked you have a lean mixture of air and fuel. or more air, not much fuel.

spacer.png

Posted

Yes...that is correct....it will just stutter etc...I did notice the spark is Oran g ish and it seems to weaken after spinning the engine over after 10-20 seconds.  I ordered a new coil for it. I did take an empty cloth and shine up the magnet...reset the gap to .0012 per spec's. So hopefully that will fix it.

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Ed Michael
      My older LM 650 is blowing fuel into the air cleaner.  Any idea on what would cause this?  It is the Suzuki motor.  Not sure what model year it is.
      Thanks
      Subaru SxS.mp4
    • By Unhappy Kioti K9 Owner
      I own a K9 with 50hrs that has been in for repair more than once the farm.  Multitude of issues, trying to file lemon on it but interested in knowing if owners are organizing for a class action suit.  The dealer informs me there are “a lot of owners very unhappy with these”.
      Thanks
    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


×
×
  • Create New...