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Similar Topics
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By CSM_Retired
This is for all of you Kioti Off-Road UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about Kioti Off-Road specific topics including the Kioti Mechron, K9, 2400, and 2440 models.
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By SkyPilot56
working on a coleman 550 out fitter , had a shit load of codes, coil, injector , and the map sensor for fuel injector replaced all 3 and figured it would start , but no joy have spark (new plug also and inline fuel filter) cleared the codes and still have the engine light , turns over fine but damn thing still will not start, friends daughters were driving it and turned it off to park , and went back to start it and same thing turns over but will not start , with this machine anyone have any ideas as to what the hell , I should be looking for , no plug's unplug checked wires none seem to be pulled apart or broken !
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By klm
If anyone is looking for the cheapest UTV, with dump bed, winch, roof and windshield, I just noticed that lowes has the axis 500/ hisun UTV on sale for 4500 (at least in my area) They are $4500. ($9000 original). I have one - they have some issues, but nothing catastrophic. My biggest complaint is that it is under powered. Also the winch failed. They are still selling an extended warranty - which I would take, just in case. My guess is lowes wants them gone.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
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