Hisun Sector E1

[EVSupport]

On 5/10/2021 at 4:16 PM, spp1 said:

Hi

The link below should take you to the Delta Q  website,  halfway down the page are the links to download the 'Simple IC Data Analysis Tool (IDAT)'.
 From what I can see it's just a monitoring tool and for interest really, I guess it might show if your not charging as well as you think

Software & Accessories - Delta-Q Technologies

 

 

As some back ground I run a small business in the UK (since 2012) building EVs, supplying conversion parts, and developing new parts and Li ion conversions. I am not a specifically Hisun oriented business, but have created a li ion Conversion for the e1 , built on the setup I use on Polaris Ranger EVs.

 

Hisun use the DeltaQ IC1200 charger. Each charger has an Algorithm loaded into it that tells the charger to what voltage to charge to at what current, and for how long and at what voltage to go to any maintenance/ trickle charge. It can also be reprogrammed (assuming DElta Q have one suitable) to work with Li ion cells.

The algorithm can be changed using a download from a suitably formatted and set up USB storage stick.

If you put a completely blank USB stick into the USB socket on the charger, then it will download a dump of charging statistics.

Using the software from DeltaQ you can use that to look at the data, it tells you how many charges, when the last one was, if they are full or incomplete charge cycles, any faults, what Algorithm you are usng etrc.

It only looks at the Charger. There is no connection to any form of BMS (No Lead systems do that) to give data on individual batteries.

Inside each battery there are separate 2v cells . 3 to give 6v 6 to give 12v. and these cells do get unbalanced. That is why a Lead battery always gets over charged in a full charge cycle. It brings up any low voltage cells and high voltage cells just turn the unwanted power into heat. On wet lead thats when you get gassing.

So always ensure you fully charge. Its worth occasionally doing a voltage check on each separate battery in the string , starting at the negative end. Note the at rest voltages when you have used the vehicle, then when its been fully charged and left to stand unplugged for say 20 mins. Do the checks again. Not them down. Now look at the data and are you seeing any that are really different voltages from the rest? If so it could mean you have a problem with a cell in that battery. As an example  if at rest after use, most are reading at just under 12v, but one is reading a bit under 10v that battery almost certainly has a faulty cell.

If these had wet cells then this is the point you re check the electrolyte level. But on sealed gel there is nothing that you can do. It possible that that battery has just got so unbalanced that the onboard over charge cant deal with it.  Unlikely but possible, so fully charge the vehicle as normal. Then carefully disconnect that battery (Ensure any cable ends dont touch anything. Wrap the end in insulation tape and cable tie the cable (use releasable ties) or tie them up with string to something solid on the vehicle. No you can remove the battery or leave it in place and put an external charger of the correct type and voltage , leave it for a day.  Then remove the external charger, re connect the battery to the rest of the pack, and see if its made a difference. If not then dont delay replacing it. A duff cell not only causes a voltage drop but to compensate the rest of the pack will have to discharge at a higher rate, so it puts all of the batteries under strain.

A few terms

Series connection.

in battery terms, join the negative on one battery to another batteries positive and the overall voltage will be the sum of the two, ie two 6v  will give 12v two 12v will give 24v. If you have 2   150Ah (Amps Hours) 12v batteries in series you will end up with a 150Ah 24v battery pack (This is called 2 S , two serial)

Parallel connection.

If you have two 150Ah 12v batteries and you join both negatives together and both positives together you will end up with a 300Ah 12v battery pack (this is called 2p)

If you have two sets of the 300Ah as above and join them in series you have one pack of 2P 2S.

Cell . 

The basic building block of batteries. In lead they are about 2v, in Nicad about 1.2v, in Alkaline/ zinc carbon about 1.5v and Li ion around 3.7v (lifepo4   3.3v) So your 12v lead battery will be made up of 6 separate 2v cells. Any one of which can fail.

DC to DC converter.

Takes High voltage DC and converts it to low voltage and not simply by using a big resistor. The output is a stable voltage suitable for the vehicles normal usage. It should never be used to charge another 12v battery by jumping of the onboard one

Motor controller / Inverter. 

In the HiSun, this is the SEVCON unit beneath the seat. This takes DC power and converts it to three phase AC to feed to the AC motor. In broad terms the frequency of the AC is what dictates the motor RPM, the controller interprets the load , the motor speed (it has a thing called an encoder on the motor that gives data you can work out RPM from), throttle input and hey presto you get the power and speed your right foot is wanting. It has inbuilt data specifically for the motor telling it how to deliver power through the rev range, how the phases interact to give the acceleration you are asking for etc etc.

Do ask a question on EV related things and I will answer if I can.

[Waterguy]

After changing the melted 30amp fuse from charger, My sector e1 will not come out of Low mode. 
Could it be the L-H-M rocker switch? I cannot get any help from Jacksonville where I purchased. They will only work on it if it is still under warranty they told me. 14 months old. Supposed to have 2 year warranty but they tell me that is just on the powertrain….anyone know what I might check?

[Cougsfan]

That sucks to know a dealer is that unsupportive. 

They are in an ICE frame of mind.  I would consider your problem  to be part of the power train on an EV.   I'd try to get a hold of Hisun directly and seek their help.

It could be the rocker switch.   It should be easy to check out with a ohmmeter.   It wouldn't seem that a charger fuse would affect the rocker switch, but you never know.

[EVSupport]

What caused the charger fuse to blow?  Where was your fuse located?  The power to the sevcon is only applied when the ign is turned on, that brings the Sevcon live, (Applies pack voltage to pin 1) but does not fully go live until the main contactor is puled in (the clonk you hear)If you have it in fwd or reverse it will call a fault and beep at you . Hence why turn on is done in neutral, Saves you shooting off in a direction at turn on. So see if you get a fault when you turn it on in FWD and reverse. Are any fault codes shown on the dash,  or the small blinking led on the Sevcon cover near the multiway connector towards the front of the sevcon under the drivers seat?  The FWD reverse is simply two switches with a centre off, each completing a circuit to a different input line on the Sevcon. Has any cabling been damaged?.

 

[Redfox]

On 5/1/2021 at 2:09 PM, Cougsfan said:

My dealer gave me a complete and thorough service manual loaded on a thumb drive with the purchase of my E1.   A dealer shouldn't have a problem with sharing one with you.   As I would expect, there isn't a section on suspension squeaks.   The unit is quite quiet.   If the rig made any engine noise, you probably wouldn't even notice those squeaks.

If you have greased all the fittings I would spray down where the shock springs rub against the shock body with silicone spray.    My guess is that is where the noise might be coming from..   

On my E1 it was squeezing at the bottom bolt through the shock. Dealer took the bolt out and greased it and no more squeezing. The bolt was a little rusty. Traveling through water may have caused it. I’m sure it won’t last long but at least I know what to do now to fix my problem 

[Osney]

Yup. Every time mine goes up on the lift so I can grease all thousand and one grease nipples, I squirt a little silicon WD40 into the spring bushings and for a few miles it's as quiet as anything. It doesn't last though, particularly given the terrain I drive over. Still eking out about five miles from the old batteries. I really must do something about a li-ion upgrade sometimes soon.