Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

My ol mule is acting up suddenly. It doesn't want to idle, it revs prefect just not idle. It eventually dies. I'm thinking something in The idle passage is plugged. Any other suggestions are appreciated that I may have over looked.

Brand new Wix fuel filter. That carb has been on for 19 years and never cleaned. Just b12 chemtool in the tank. I may hook up an auxiliary tank and see if it's fuel lines. But probably not since it revs fine.

Posted

Great job!  I've used Sea Foam in the gas tank, let it run for an hour or so, cleans the garbage out. I've heard of mechanics doing this and then charging for tuneups.

Posted

I just read on another forum about someone having the same issue with a chain saw. It would run great but not idle. Turned out it was the spark plug. Something failed internally. 

Posted

Could be, I put a new Champion plug in about 6 weeks ago. 

And it started all the sudden,  it ran fine that morning and went to go start it later and it wouldn't idle.

But it idles good at 3/4 choked.

Posted

Couple things, if the new spark plug was a different heat range, it would affect the idle characteristics.  Second, the idle air screw having trash or corrosion will do this. 

For those that don't understand carburetor fundamentals, the carb runs off the idle air screw from idle to about 2500 rpms.  From about 2500 to 3500rpms, it's a combination of idle air and main jet fueling.  After 3500 rpms it's all main jet fueling.  So, hopefully that helps some folks narrow down their carburetor troubleshooting.  

For example, idles fine but boggs down at higher rpms, you have main jet issues (the big one that pokes up through the middle of the carb).  Bad idle but runs with open throttle, idle air issues (usually a screw or smaller needle type, may be under a thin tin cap that you drill or pry out (EPA thing), up in the front of the carb). 

  • Like 1
Posted

Okay, weird thing. 

Go out and fire up the mule, it idles PERFECT. I drove it around for about 10 minutes. Then let it idle for several minutes. Drive it around some more. Then let it idle, idles perfect.

I guess the b12 chemtool I put in it worked it's magic...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

My 610 Mule will idle about 20 seconds the puff and dies, starts right back up.  I have cleaned carb , no help then replaced with new carb, new plug, new fuel pump, new gas lines , removed tank to make sure it was clean.  i have run seaform in it too.  Could it be a vacuum problem or do I need to drill out cap and adjust carb??

 

Posted

Will it stay running if you rev it up to a constant high RPM?

I would also play with the choke a bit, and see if it idles or won't die on partial or almost full choke.

Did you replace the carburetor with a new OEM Kawasaki or a Chinesium off of ebay/Amazon?

It's possible (Even on a new Low quality carb) for the float (which regulates fuel flow into the carb bowl) to get stuck in the closed position, which prevents any more fuel from flowing into the bowl.

 

It's possible it's a vacuum problem.

It's also possible, but not as likely the ignition coil is failing, but they generally don't start right back up.

Posted

I have noticed that the gas cap has pressure on it when i unscrew it.    I didnt know if that was normal or not.    Should the gas cap has a vent hole in it or does it vent a different way?

Posted
3 minutes ago, Pamm r said:

ok great, that may be it, so if so, the cap looks new , do i just try to take it apart to see or look for a hole?

 

Generally you either replace it or I've let them soak in a solvent bath, ( gasoline)

Due to EPA regs the cap vent is fairly complicated.

Let me see if I can find a picture of The gas cap and see....

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The gas caps have little silicone flapper disks in them that vent one-way.  When they start to deteriorate they get really sticky and ambient pressures aren't enough to break the seal.  The pressure you're sensing when opening the cap may be air rushing into the gas tank.  

  • Like 1
Posted

 

4 minutes ago, Nate T. said:

The gas caps have little silicone flapper disks in them that vent one-way.  When they start to deteriorate they get really sticky and ambient pressures aren't enough to break the seal.  The pressure you're sensing when opening the cap may be air rushing into the gas tank.  

👍

 

Just an example I though of.

Think of a. red gas can, if you block the air vent, it will only pour so much, when you unblock it, it breathes in..

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

does it stay running if you rev it up.

I would start it and keep a constant high RPM.

Did you put new fresh  gasoline in it?

I remember one time I got water in the gas in my mule, and it idled like crap and then die, but if I revved it up it would stay running.....

 

Posted

If you could post a video of it running then dying, that would be great.

One thing I would try is take off the air filter, and get either starting fluid or carburetor cleaner, and when it starts to die, spray it into the carb .

If revs it back up, it can be narrowed down to a fuel issue.

If not it could be a spark issue. Or a valve problem. Which is least likely.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank in MI
      Thanks for accepting me!
      Haven't got a side by side yet, but have been shopping.   
      Any advice welcome & I am on a limited budget, so haven't decided yet on new or used.
       
    • By JSwearer
      Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks.  I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
      Thanks
    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
      Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping.  If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
       

    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...