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By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Cub Cadet 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
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By FTG-05
I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
What other makes and models should I be looking at?
Thanks for the help!
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By rsar
So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price. Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for. Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.
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