2013 Intimidator Not Charging Battery
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By hisun junk
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 with a broke chinese hisun motor and I know that I'm not alone! Almost all the places that were selling them in Colorado don't anymore due to the return for repairs on the clutches and broken timing chains! Don't have yours fixed because it will happen again! They just replace the broken parts with more junk chinese parts! I talked with a UTV mechanic that has replaced one person's clutch 4 times! I have people contacting cub cadet about these problems and also looking into complete motor replacement from hisun junk to a Japanese motor in which the chinese cloned their junk from.
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By lmarkie
I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
Any thoughts?
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By jonny L
Went for a nice trail ride for about 20 miles, came back, shut it off, and attempted to go for another ride. The electronic gear shifter will not go into park to start it up. It reads neutral in the park position. Disconnected the battery and reconnected and it now read Park. But, when you put your foot on the brake to start it, it goes right back to neutral. Checked everything that I could think of and decided it has to be the 17 gear position sensor. Not certain this is the issue but I bought a used one on Ebay (could not locate a new one) and will try it. Any other possibilities?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By diamondjfarm
I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
Thanks.
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