Idle - stalling - running issues
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By Greg Kilgore
Got a 2021 Axis 500.
I'm needing the head bolt torque specs.
Manual states 38nm.
But saw a video Hisun put out on YT for a 550 stating 50nm + 45° turn of wrench. Didn't think they would be that much difference on a 500 and a 550.
Seen another YT video on a 2013 500. He did 38nm.
Really only want to do this job once and done. And done correct.
Anybody got the answer?
Going to start this rebuild in a few once this weather brakes. Flooding and then snow and cold here now. But spring is around the corner and the wife has to have this fixed or a Honda pioneer may be parked in driveway soon. She has to be able to ride.
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By dman66
My buddy has a ut400 that the forward gear keeps popping out of gear. She only has like 400 miles on the odometer .the shift cable has been adjusted and the shift lever has been updated / modified. All other gears are good. Is there an internal detent cam or something that wears out or shift fork that can be replaced ? Or is there some other magic that I can perform ? Looks like the engine needs to be split.
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By downseast
Hi everyone
Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
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By Homeowner A
Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load. Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out. It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature. I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter. No check engine light. I don't have a code reader for this. Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking. I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good. Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77. What should I try or consider next?
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By Homeowner A
Is there a better performing higher volume injector than what they come with or what is the best replacement for the original?
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