Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I generally use my challenger for light duty misc. use, and for plowing. The one thing I dislike about this machine is the difficulty in shifting. I've had it the shop and they adjusted the shifting lever, but I still have issues. Some times it shifts ok, but the problem is it is hard to get it to move the lever from high to reverse or low to high or from any gear to the other. Seems I always have to accelerate a little to get it to engage to what gear I need it to go to. This is definitely not normal.

  • Alex changed the title to 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 750 shifting problems
  • 1 month later...
Posted

You probably have too much grease in the primary clutch housing that has the weights. I had the same issue with mine. Over a cup of grease in there! The roller weights in there need to move and won’t if cold due to a cup of 90 weight gear oil. Manual calls for slightly greased with 90 wt oil. I live where it is very cold in the winter. I used moly dry spray instead of grease.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

YES!  The Cub Cadet Shifting is a poor design. I understand and sometimes forget that you must have your foot on the brke to shift, but, I is still a major pain, especially while plowing.  I hope they find a better way to shift or my next buggie won't be a CUB...

Posted

I have a 2020, when I first got it I WD40’d all the moving parts related to the shifter, even the plastic part that moves with the shift lever.

I've never had a problem since then and I’m thinking the dealers should do this before it’s delivered to a customer.

Posted

I Have a 2017 Challenger 550.  it is a piece of S*** it has 324 miles and 112 hours on it and is currently in the shop getting its 4th new clutch that is an average of about 28 hours per clutch.  this machine is not abused at all it is lightly used around the yard and was intended to plow my driveway but can't even use it for that since the clutch system does not allow you to back up any inclines without burning out the clutch and the shifting of this machine is pathetic,  I have been going back and forth with level 3 tech support and they seem to put the blame on me for user error everytime.  I was told today they i should never put the machine in a position where i would have to backup from a stop with any incline (LOL) you pay $15000 for this thing and you have to drive it on flat surfaces.  *********Buyers beware these things are junk**************

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 I have I have the same your Cub Cadet 2018 Challenger 750 and I have new shift to put in it and all the new shifter is giving me problems and I found out that if you brake lightly you can go from low high and neutral and if you can't get a past neutral into reverse or Park, brake a little harder and it should go all the way up reverse and Park. Hopefully that helps you out. I took my old one apart and there's only two little pieces in there besides the shifter and a spring into little levers at hit notches.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

My 2017 750 has the same problems  550 miles 66 hours.  3 chutchs.  muffler broke. seat cracked. won't shift.  now the timing chain jump off recking cam gear and bending the yalves.  the timing chain  adjuster was assembled wrong right from the factory. Sent a video  of it to cub and cub will not help me out.  We have to get the word out to not  buy this junk.

  • 7 months later...
  • 11 months later...
Posted

I have a 2022 challenger 750 and most of the time it will hardly go all the way into park and when shifting from park to reverse the gears grind. Sounds  horrible, but sometimes it's fine.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I have a 2018 Challenger 750. I would occasionally have this same problem shifting but could always resolve within a half dozen attempts.

Today was different. After a short run, I was in Reverse, backing it towards the garage. I then went to put it in High to move forward and adjust my angle. While I was able to move it past Neutral and into Drive, the display still showed R. I tried changing gears again thinking it didn’t click into Drive right but when I moved to Low, High admin, and then Neutral, the display still showed a R. Next I put it into park and the display finally changed to P. Now I can’t get it out of Park. No matter what gear I move it to, the display shows P. It will not move no matter what gear I try. 

Anyone seen this before or have suggestions? Thanks!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello, I have. 2020 challenger 750 that’s stuck in drive. It has been bad since shortly after I got it. It gradually would get more difficult to shift until now it won’t shift. The button pushes in but won’t release. I only have about 150 miles on it and it hasn’t been a rough 150 either. Any ideas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By hisun junk
      As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault!  I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By Dennis
      I have  a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013.  In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse.  I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free.  With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift.  once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile.   Any suggestion on where to go from here?
    • By redneckred
      I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X.  I bought it used.  It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched.  I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel).  The machine cranked and ran beautifully.  I had it over a year and then the machine quit running.  As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve.  I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old.  Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear.  Then forward quit.  I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one.  Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose.  (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them.  I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank.  It turns over fine.  It gets gas to the injector and has spark.  I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out.  I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change.  I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did.  I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off.  I have to disconnect the battery to stop it.  Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing?  Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing?  Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving.  I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful.  Thanks in advance.
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
×
×
  • Create New...