Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

American SportWorks LM 650 won’t start at times. Starter won’t engage the solenoid just “clicks” much like a weak battery would cause. Battery was replaced and problem went away and then came back. Replaced positive battery terminal. Problem resolved then returned. Replaced negative battery terminal. Problem gone then returned. Replaced the positive and negative battery cable ends. Problem resolved and now returned. The repair lasts for maybe 12 starts, then the solenoid just “clicks” again as it will with a weak battery. So I replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved for a week. With each “fix” the problem is resolved but only temporarily. Does anyone have any suggestions ? To replace the starter is expensive especially if it’s not the problem. 

Posted

Sounds like a bad starter. The starter will land on low spot. Try tapping the starter body with a small hammer and see if it cranks when you get the solenoid just clicking. If it starts, the starter needs to be replaced.

Posted
1 hour ago, Alex said:

Sounds like a bad starter. The starter will land on low spot. Try tapping the starter body with a small hammer and see if it cranks when you get the solenoid just clicking. If it starts, the starter needs to be replaced.

Ditto

Posted

Make sure the starter is tight and the mounting points are clean. When it won't start pull the pull rope just enough to land on a different spot on the flywheel and then try to start with the starter. It could be a worn spot on the flywheel.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

@Travis Bad starter on an American LandMaster 650. “Finally “ found a starter. Subaru is out of the small engine business and replacement engine parts are scarce and expensive. Anyone ever  change a starter on an LM650? Can’t get on top mounting bolt. The service manual is no help and neither are shops in the area. Don’t want to just start removing hardware if it’s not necessary. 

Posted

Installed the new starter on my LM650 with the Subaru engine. Removal was simple once the voltage regulator was removed. The starter would not engage all the time. Symptoms of a bad solenoid or bad starter. Subaru no longer is in the small engine business so locating a new started was difficult and expensive.  To my dismay, the new starter reacted the same. Here’s what I’ve done so far...replaced the ignition switch, the battery, the Battery cable ends, the battery post terminals, and now the starter with solenoid. I’ve cleaned or replaced any wire terminal dealing with the starter, ignition switch and battery. I have run out of ideas. The Subaru help line suggested the starter relay but that is part of the starter and the new starter covered that. The voltage regulator is the only thing not yet replaced but the dashboard digital volt meter indicates that it is working. Max voltage output is 14.25 volts and when the lights are turned on it drops to 12.5 volts. Does anyone have any suggestions ?

Posted

Yes, it has a neutral safety switch. If the Vehicle is not in neutral, the ignition is completely dead. My problem is not That. The starter attempts to engage the flywheel but cannot. It seems like it cannot roll the engine over. After several attempts it will succeed and the motor starts. As I stated previously, additional amps were applied and the starter engaged each time. The battery is brand new and charged. 450CCA capacity. 

  • Like 1
Posted

When it won't start pull the pull rope just enough to land on a different spot on the flywheel and then try to start with the starter. It could be a worn spot on the flywheel.

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Old post but, I would have tried a valve adjustment. Controls  the decompression when starting allowing it t o turn over. Depending on where engine stops, it could be hard to turn over.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I had the same problem with the starter clicking at times on my LM 700 with a Subaru engine. I contacted technical support at Subaru and they sent me a wiring diagram that had a relay switch being installed between the starter and solenoid. I took this with the relay to my UTV mechanic and he installed it and it totally fixed the problem. This was a defect with the this engine that they knew about. I think this is why Landmaster went to Briggs. .. Fred

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

ke the wires from the starter and move to the solenoids and run wire from solenoid to starter. Watch a mfew youtubes on installing a 12v solenoid and it should be clear. Don't get confused with re;ay. The solenoid becomes your relay. Chaep fix.

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Gorj
      I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries.  I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each.  I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
    • By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • By Jim Kessell
      Hi All
      2010 653cc
      Need any information on a Subaru Robins EH65 engine. Particularly the carb vacuum line to the bottom of the carb. I think it’s disconnected internally in the engine. 
      Thanks Jim
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By tuell
      Hi everyone I have a 2016 hisun vector 550 with 1320 miles on it I recently replaced the clutch the bell the belt the one way bearing basically everything inside the primary and drove approximately one mile my side by side just stopped pulling... no noise no smoke nothing the belt is still good but it's like the transmission will not engage in any gear any help would be greatly appreciated.... I have lifted the rear end and started the side to side put it in gear Wheels do not move but you can turn them by hand
×
×
  • Create New...