2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 750 Cooling Fan
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By Homeowner A
I've been having misfire issues with my UTV 400 when it gets warm and I've thrown all kinds of parts at it so far with no permanent resolution. Today I removed the O2 sensor and it is black on the end. To me that means it's running rich and/or the sensor isn't working. I replaced the sensor with a new one and will see how it goes I guess. With EFI, I'm wondering why the sensor would be this way with low hours and mileage? Is there a way to adjust or lean out fueling on these? Thanks in advance.
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By Gorj
I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
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By SteveS
While driving the MSU 800, it runs good but it lately it will not go over 20 MPH. The side by side will hesitate when it reaches 21 MPH, but it will run good under 20 MPH. What is the issue?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Gorj
I am into five years of ownership of my electric side by side and I am noticing some deterioration of power. Although I measured the voltage at over 49 volts, I believe the batteries are beginning to fail. I charge them about twice a week. Last year the charger went out and I replaced it with a 48 volt golf cart charger. What has been your experience with the batteries?
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