Massimo T-boss 410 starting
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By KWinTX
I just bought a new 2024 Hison 550 Stryker 2 months ago. this is the second time I have had this issue. It only has about 20 hours on it. The last time it happened we took it back to the dealer. it was a fuse. Since we live three-hour time driving there and back. I would like to find another solution if possible. I have tried all the fuses that seem to have anything to do with starting. Currently checking the battery. The battery is new. it came with the unit. It is probably 6 months old. the UTV has all power to everything electrical. lights turn signals and radio all work. When trying the key to start . it is 100% dead. as in it doesn't even click. There is a low whirring like the fuel pump is turning on though. The Unit was running and driving just fine. we shut it down for the night. The next morning my wife found it in this condition. Thanks for any Ideas or solutions??? Otherwise, it goes back to the dealer tomorrow. Just hope I didn't buy a lemon. Great little UTV when it does run.😅 anyone else ever have this Issue..?
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By CSM_Retired
This is for all of you Kioti Off-Road UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about Kioti Off-Road specific topics including the Kioti Mechron, K9, 2400, and 2440 models.
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By klm
If anyone is looking for the cheapest UTV, with dump bed, winch, roof and windshield, I just noticed that lowes has the axis 500/ hisun UTV on sale for 4500 (at least in my area) They are $4500. ($9000 original). I have one - they have some issues, but nothing catastrophic. My biggest complaint is that it is under powered. Also the winch failed. They are still selling an extended warranty - which I would take, just in case. My guess is lowes wants them gone.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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