Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

<_< Well here is my dilemma. I just blew my rear differential out of my T2. The problem I have is Joyner wants me to go through my dealer to determine if I can get a replacement under warranty even though I have had the machine for + or - 8 months. This is all great but what about down the road if I blow another and cant get it warrantied. Joyner does not sell just the gear set (Ring and Pinion) you have to buy the whole differential complete for over $900.00(US). Ok so this is where I am coming from. I had burned up my 4X4 electronic selector months ago and when I tore it apart to repair it I hand noticed that it had Arctic Cat stamped on the electronic board inside . I did some research and found that the exact same selector is used on some of Arctic Cats ATV four Wheelers. So now I am thinking that the diff’s could also be from an Arctic Cat ATV and some look very close but I am having trouble finding one with the manual locker or even a locker at all. See Arctic Cat does sell just the ring and pinion and for under $200.00(US) A big savings from buying the whole diff. I can call Arctic Cat but I thought I would pick all your brains first to see if any of you can come up with something. This could benefit us all. Oh and to answer any questions on what happened to my diff. here it goes. Jack Ass, that’s what I call myself when I do something stupid decided to show off and spin out on dry very clean concert at a very high RPM and well yep boom blew the ring and pinion gears. Yep again, now look who’s cool. Well anyhow, below is some of the specs I have determined so far.

Ring Gear: 32 tooth

Pinion: 15 tooth

Gear Ratio: 2.13

Ring Gear Diameter: 6 5/8" 0r 6.625"

Pinion: 26 spline

ring gear: 12 bolt

No Part numbers on anything except the case and I believe it to be Joyners marking.

HTR10711130

Posted

Not to add insult to injury...... but if you destroyed it doing a burnie on concrete, why would expect Joyner to pay for the parts. On another note, I have replaced rear diffs in some quads, that dont offer just a gear set, and they can be as much as $1200. Sorry about your bad luck but I dont think you will find an atv gear set for that diff. Sorry A.

Posted

You have the info, call a artic cat dealer, have them count the teeth and splines, if it all sound the same have him ship it to you withthe understanding if it is the wrong part you can send it back, that way you would only be out shipping charges if it where wrong.

Posted
You have the info, call a artic cat dealer, have them count the teeth and splines, if it all sound the same have him ship it to you withthe understanding if it is the wrong part you can send it back, that way you would only be out shipping charges if it where wrong.

Good thinking flatbed and good luck with that latch73.

Cheers Mike

Posted

Not a cure and probably no help, but if you put the front diff in the back or at least the ring and pinion and then make the ring and pinion so they don't damage any thing else and enjoy driving your trooper without the advantage of front wheel drive. My dealer suggested stay in two wheel drive until I NEED 4 X 4 and it surprises me how far I go. :rolleyes:

Posted

One problem to that deal, I hope you like going backwards because you will have 5 gears back-wards and 1 gear forward. The drive lines are going into the diffs oppisite ways so you will be going the oppisite way.

Posted

Do not want to take your money, On 4 wheel drive vehicles the ring and pion gears are cut oppisite so that you are always loading the long side of the tooth on the gears. We had better hope that they did it on our troopers. the rear diff is correct, i have had one apart.

Posted

The teeth on the ring gear are curved. so if you picture yourself making a turn in the road the inside lane is shorter than the outside lane. The outside is curve of the tooth is longer. Sorta like water on a dam, it is curved for strength, the water bares on the long side of the dam.

Posted
The teeth on the ring gear are curved. so if you picture yourself making a turn in the road the inside lane is shorter than the outside lane. The outside is curve of the tooth is longer. Sorta like water on a dam, it is curved for strength, the water bares on the long side of the dam.

2433688450104282158GyEJFX_th.jpg

L stands for long

S stands for short

Did I get it right?

and I'm still not convinced that they don't use the same ring & pinion front & rear, the diffs are rotated 180 degrees (the opening on rear is on the right and on the left for the front. As I see it, if the rear pinion is turning the front of the rear ring downward, then the front pinion will be turning the back of the front ring upward, because the diffs are rotated. (still looking for info).

Posted

the long side of the tooth would be ))) the right side of )) The short side, the side of the gear being used in reverse ))) left side. You are making me mad with how well you do pictures

Posted

You teach me mechanics & I'll teach you pictures, Do you have Microsoft photo editor, I find a photo, copy it, paste as new image into ms photo editor & save, then use paint brush to label it, open http://community.webshots.com/user/TrooperFolk, add the photo, click on the photo, click on the post in a forum link, copy, post in my message. :lol::lol::lol: EASY

I just found a diff site that I found interesting, I doubt any of us trooper drivers will use it, but you never know, lots of photos

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...ficial%26sa%3DN

after browsing through this link, I don't think my suggestion to move ring and pinion from front to back has any merit at all, and if I do say so my self, what a stupid idea!!!! :blink: To much work to get the correct mesh. :D

Posted

latch73

What happened as far a getting parts for the diff. did you find a ring and pion. another thing to think about is changing the gear ratio. going to a taller gear will make the ring and pion stronger. you would have to change both ends of course.

Posted
latch73

What happened as far a getting parts for the diff. did you find a ring and pion. another thing to think about is changing the gear ratio. going to a taller gear will make the ring and pion stronger. you would have to change both ends of course.

Flatbed,

I have come real close with some of the ring gear and pinions used in different ATV's. The part thats killing me is the rear locker. I cant come up with anything that uses a rear locker witch is critical do to the way the ring gear bolts on. As far as going taller if I am not goofed up would actualy make for a weaker pinion gear do to the fact that the pinion would drop in the number of teeth. Not 100% on this but if my mind is not playing with me I belive that is the way it works. The other problem is I think with taller gears I would loose alot of bottom end torque. Whats your oppinion?

Posted

In our semi trucks we run 456s, we used to run the 488s. our trucks move loads up to 300,000 lbs. the 456s are a stronger gear, you have more teeth in contact and the gear is thicker. When you run planitarys they run a high gear on the ring and pion and then lower the gear back down with the planitarys at the hub. In racing we had a problem on short tracks, (need lower gear ratio) the ring gears would break. !st gear in the trooper has plenty of torq so i don't think the gearing would kill you.

Posted
In our semi trucks we run 456s, we used to run the 488s. our trucks move loads up to 300,000 lbs. the 456s are a stronger gear, you have more teeth in contact and the gear is thicker. When you run planitarys they run a high gear on the ring and pion and then lower the gear back down with the planitarys at the hub. In racing we had a problem on short tracks, (need lower gear ratio) the ring gears would break. !st gear in the trooper has plenty of torq so i don't think the gearing would kill you.

Thanks flatbed that makes good sense.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I am back on the road again. YeHa!!! I was able to purchase a ring and pinion set from a dealer who had a T2 come in with a busted diff. housing. FYI, If anybody breaks there gears, unless you can find a used set from someone, you will have to purchase the complete differential form Joyner because they dont sell just the gears. ($900.00 +) Well happy holidays to all.

Lance

Posted
Well I am back on the road again. YeHa!!! I was able to purchase a ring and pinion set from a dealer who had a T2 come in with a busted diff. housing. FYI, If anybody breaks there gears, unless you can find a used set from someone, you will have to purchase the complete differential form Joyner because they dont sell just the gears. ($900.00 +) Well happy holidays to all.

Lance

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...ficial%26sa%3DN Did you have to do all the stuff in this article or just put them in place and tighten the bolts?

jeff

Posted
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...ficial%26sa%3DN Did you have to do all the stuff in this article or just put them in place and tighten the bolts?

jeff

Jeff its kind of funny because I have set up many of chevy differentials and one Toyota and there is no adjustment on the trooper differential. It is built so it can only go together one way and does not use a crush sleeve or have any shims to allow for back lash adjustment. I didnt put a mic on it but the back lash is not to far off by just feel and sound. I have never seen anything like it and figure that is the reason Joyner does not sell just the gears.

Posted

If you get a chance, take a look at the front gears, I still think they'll be the same as the rear, after all do you think they want to go the expense to make them different when they can just turn one upside down. :D

Jeff

Posted
If you get a chance, take a look at the front gears, I still think they'll be the same as the rear, after all do you think they want to go the expense to make them different when they can just turn one upside down. :D

Jeff

I bet your right. I hope I dont have to break into anymore diffs. but if that ever happens I will investigate. It would be good to know so if anyone ever breaks some gears we would know if you could use the fronts on the rears and vice versa.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By Bloodhound
      Don't know the size anyone know the reliability fo theae
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
×
×
  • Create New...