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By Justine
I've had a Hisun Vector E1 for just a bit longer than is required for me to do some maintenance. While it's well-overdue, it only drives 1.5km a few times each week on a fairly decent gravel road (to the letterbox), and it has worked really well right from the get-go.
Looking at the manual it states that I need to use SAE80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Main gear Case, and SAE80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Front gear Case - unfortunately i can't find either of those online here in Australia. Plenty of options that look close, but, as someone who has never driven any vehicle before, I want to use the right thing and it's a tad confusing.
My question: Since there are no oils that are bang on SAE80 (they all seem to cover a range) would Liqui Moly Hypoid GL4 Gear Oil 80W-90 & Motorex Hypoid GL-5 Gear Oil 80W90 - be ok to use? (Or any other suggestions of what I might be able to purchase online in Australia) And would I have to drain out any existing oil from both gear cases?
This is a whole new world for me and being able to find exactly what is specified in the manual hasn't made this easy!
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By Jim Kessell
2005 American Landmaster
EH65 Subaru Robins
spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb. What’s causing this ??
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By redneckred
I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X. I bought it used. It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched. I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel). The machine cranked and ran beautifully. I had it over a year and then the machine quit running. As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve. I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old. Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear. Then forward quit. I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one. Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose. (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them. I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank. It turns over fine. It gets gas to the injector and has spark. I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out. I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change. I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did. I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing? Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing? Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving. I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
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By fishhouse3
FOR SALE: 2021 CFMOTO ZForce 800 Trail with many extras and full warranty until 2027. Only 625 miles and 50 hours of use.
In great condition, has a clean title and one adult owner. Has had all scheduled regular maintenance and has not been abused. Only used about six times on weekend trips to Hatfield-McCoy trails in WV.
Under full CFMOTO Care bumper-to-bumper extended warranty until 8/2027 (paid $1,600). Full service and tune up just completed with new clutch, drive shaft, belt, rollers, etc (paid $1500). Plus it comes with over $3,500 in upgrades and accessories! Way too many included items to list here (see last pics for full details).
This machine is ready to go and needs nothing - just hop in and hit the trails! I have over $20k invested in this machine. Priced VERY fair to sell quick at less than half that!!!
$9,999 WITHOUT warranty -OR- $10,999 WITH full extended warranty until 8/2027.
Located in Chesterfield, VA 23832. Message me for more pics and info!
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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