Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Boxing hello i have a 2019 hisun 550  blowing 10 amp fuses for signal and speed sensor  turn signals not when running as far as i no it doesnt shut down just when u go to start  because no start  replace fuse starts up  and runs  no dash lites .like i say everything works  couple days  still works  maybe and hr no go  or start

any ideas  replaced ignition switch 

Posted

That really sounds like a short in that circuit. Like its only sparking, when the vehicle moves it around. Especially if it lasts a varying amount of time. 

Of course I could be wrong, but I'd replace the fuse, then turn it on. Try wiggling wires, especially those in the affected circuit. If its a bad switch, or hard component like a pump, or a brake light assembly. Typically the fuse will hold a certain length of time. Usually taking the almost exact amount of time to blow each time. Unless I've misunderstood the problem. Of course hard components can also be loose, and rattle, causing similar symptoms. So all components, as well as connecting wires must be inspected, and wiggled. 

If the dash lights never worked after replacing the fuse, I'd suspect that the problem lies there. Possibly in the dash circuitry itself.

Are you sure that 10A is correct? That's not enough amps for anything but the simplest circuit. As far as it not shutting down. The starting components being dead won't necessarily affect an engine once its running. As far as the electrical system goes, really only the charging circuit, and related components matter once its running.

Isn't this thing still under warranty?

 

Posted

thats the problem iam the warranty  yes it is 10amp i drove around plowed field  wet lands  4ways operating headlites signal lites brake lites  4wd activated  diff locked nothing shut off walked away come back 10-15 minutes later  turned key nothing no headlites turnsignals .no rollover replaced 10amp fuse started rite up

 

 

wtf       thanks again gremlin

 

Posted

Sounds like you'll need a wiring diagram for your machine. You'll have to find out what exactly is on that circuit. As I've said before, 10amps isn't much power.

Since electrical diagrams seem to be hard to find for most machines. And for me personally, they're not easy to read. I'd probably try replacing the fuse, and without starting it up. See what works, then pull the fuse, and see what doesn't. That'll give some idea what's on the circuit. I'd also try to see if I could get the fuse to blow while it ISN'T running. Checking the turn signal, and such. That should simplify the whole process. Since then you'll know what activity caused it to blow.

For the next tests I'd start it up, but not drive it. Check each item, pulling the fuse after each test. Wiggling wires, and doing what I could to get the fuse to blow. ANYTHING to narrow it down. But being certain to pull and check the fuse between each test. I'd put it up on jack stands to test the speed sensor.

From my experience, it'll likely be something underneath the vehicle. That's where most of the destructive force is most active. So a thorough visual inspection would be a good idea while its up on stands. Paying close attention to items that are known to be on that circuit, like the speed sensor.

After that it'll be a continuity test. Chasing each wire on that circuit.

Posted

sorry beat u to punch done it all  now to remove outer casing on wiring harness to check for  bad or damaged wire

said before signals tails speed sensor  diff lock  2 and 4 wd activator all on ignition and start  solenoid  key off nothing  with key off

turn key on everything   works  then maybe next time nothing or it would start or maybe not .like i say nothing works with key off

 

 

Quote

 

 

Posted

I probably should have been clearer in my post above. I should've said key on, motor off. Instead of just saying not running. It's not supposed to do anything with the key off. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank Mac67
      My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that. 
      - NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
      *I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
      *I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment. 
      Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
      Can anyone help?
      I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
      Can anyone help with this?
      Thanks in advance for any help.
       
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Alien10
      Maybe members can post where they have obtained parts and service for their Hisun produced UTVs and ATVs, including the Coleman lines.  Maybe post the model you have, what you bought,  and how the products were quality wise.  Also if you had any shop service done, where (city & state) and how it worked out for you.   
       
    • By Frank in MI
      Found a NEW 2022 Bighorn 550 DX for $9K.   Any opinions on this machine????
       
    • By Alien10
      I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers).
      Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros  cons etc.?
      Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. 
      Thoughts and comments welcomed.
      Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...