Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am trying to figure out the type of battery that I should get for my 2013 Cub Cadet Volunteer.  The old battery says it was 450 CCA, but I've been having trouble finding one with exactly that in the local stores.  My wife picked up a 575CCA (26R) from OReillys.  Will that work?  Or will I ruin something by increasing the CCA?

 

The attached image is of my old battery.

IMG_20200326_180353852.jpg

Posted

You should be fine, they are all 12V and the CCA is Cold Cranking Amps. That 26R group size, if it fits, just has more cold starting power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By hisun junk
      As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault!  I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By JimWil
      Looking for a place/website to order a  replacement bench seat and a dump bed fender from.
      Pics are the original orange when purchased and after painting with a textured bed liner type coating.
      Just looking for those two parts as mentioned above.
      JimWil
    • By Gary T
      I generally use my challenger for light duty misc. use, and for plowing. The one thing I dislike about this machine is the difficulty in shifting. I've had it the shop and they adjusted the shifting lever, but I still have issues. Some times it shifts ok, but the problem is it is hard to get it to move the lever from high to reverse or low to high or from any gear to the other. Seems I always have to accelerate a little to get it to engage to what gear I need it to go to. This is definitely not normal.
×
×
  • Create New...