Quantcast
Jump to content


Hisun 550 750 Stuck In Rear Diff Lock


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

With wheels blocked, motor off but key on, use a volt meter and see if you actually have 12 volts at your splice - hot lead from meter on your splice other lead on a clean metal part of the frame - have a helper activate and deactivate the switch for the differential lock while you are watching the meter - if you have the correct voltage, look for a bad ground wire - if no voltage (and you are sure this is the hot wire to the differential solenoid) - undo your splice,  make a jumper from the battery positive terminal and momentarily touch it to the hot wire on the side going to the differential - you should hear the solenoid click - if no click check the ground from solenoid again - last hope at that point is turn off the switch and connect  an ohm meter  to the hot wire and ground of the differential lock - an open - (no reading on the vom) means a wire broken beyond the splice, or no ground or a burned out solenoid on the differential lock - a 0.00 ohms reading means that you might have a shorted or burned coil inside of the solenoid - try reading at the lowest (smallest) ohms setting on the meter - manuals for your buggy are available in several places online - they tell you what ohm reading is allowed for many parts of the vehicle - search this forum for links to the service  manual - did I mention to check the ground again - lol - that would be a subconscious accident of 40 plus years of experience (bad experiences - grin) 

Edited by etimc
Added to the post
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I bought a slightly used (15 hrs) HiSun 550 UTV  from Rural King that had been returned by a customer.  It was running rough and couldn't get the gear shifter to operate correctly.  I bought it at a discounted price and have fixed the rough running and gear shift problems; new fuel injector and in-line filter, and idle air control valve.   Part of the gear shifting problem was because of rough and fast idle, and when I recalibrated the engine for the injector, the idle speed was smooth at about 1100 RPM. 
But now I notice that the rear differential stays in the locked mode all the time, 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive.  I don't think this is normal because it is hard to turn and the wheels dig out dirt and scoot when making a sharp turn.  Does anyone have a clue about how the rear differential is supposed to engage the locking mode?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not all Hisun 550 models (mostly 2016+ models) do not have a rear differential. They are a "spooler" type axles with a solid center  section--I.e. equal power to both wheels at all times.

OP (older thread, one post newbie has probably moved on but I'll try to help) , what model Hisun 550 doe you have, is it an "HS" series,  a "Sector", "Vector" or "Strike"? What model year is it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, I contacted the factory technical person about the rear differential "problem", and he said that the model I have doesn't really have a regular differential.  It is a "positrac" type that has both rear axles locked together all of the time.   So, I really don't have a problem other than I don't like that feature because it makes it hard to turn a sharp radius and tears up the ground pretty bad.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Daniel P said:

Okay, I contacted the factory technical person about the rear differential "problem", and he said that the model I have doesn't really have a regular differential.  It is a "positrac" type that has both rear axles locked together all of the time.   So, I really don't have a problem other than I don't like that feature because it makes it hard to turn a sharp radius and tears up the ground pretty bad.

Their stating it"...doesn't really have a regular differential." is correct--however to call it "...a 'positrac' type..." is not. Posii Trac is GMs  trade name for their clutch-pack type limited slip differential, which is a differential with a stack of alternate composite-faced  and bare steel plates, the composite plates are splined to the carrier, the bare plates to the axle (or 'tother way round). In operation when one wheel slips the lateral force generated by the driven wheel's side gear clamps the clutches, locking the wheels together. However It is a real differential and behaves as such when he force needed to spin the wheels at differing speeds exceeds the clamping force of the clutch pack--I.e. it is "limited slip" in straight-line travel.

Ford call s it Trac Lok.

Our vehicles do not have a differential at he rear, but rather what is usually and correctly called a 'Rear Reducer" or "Rear Bridge (Reducer)" that uses  a solid "spool" connection between the axles; there is no possibility of the wheels rotating ate differing speeds, or with differing power. Both axles connect directly to the reduction unit's ring gear

HS550 rear reducer:
HS550RearBrige-00.thumb.jpg.fb07ba4535a4fee36d245382b4e2a8a4.jpg

The downsides to this are, as you stated tearing up soft surfaces in tight turns, and tire wear. The upside is very  much improved traction in straight-line and modest turns without the cost and complexity of a limited-slip, or open but "lockable" differential¹ (there are other types in addition to the clutch-pack variety)--his is not a benefit to be overlooked. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
¹- Some pre-2016 Hisun 550 models did have open, but lockable (solenoid operated it appears), rear differentials--my understanding is they were troublesome and did not drive the vehicle especially well off road when not locked;  so they were generally kept locked which of course lead to "unlocking'" problems as the miles piled up.

Quote

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By PossumTruck
      Greetings,
      I have a client that wants me to install a heater of some sort to aid in cold weather starting (she uses it at her business, has had issues starting the last few days in sub-zero). I would prefer a coolant heater to a pan heater (silicone pad), but I cant for the life of me find the diameter of the coolant hoses. Heck, I'm not even sure if it would work as well in this application given how long the hose is compared to tractors and trucks I have installed them in. 
      Any advice you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated. 
    • By amiracle40995
      I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have. 

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By JOSEPH LAMAR
      I have a 2020 axis 500 and I have replaced the TPS twice and the whole throttle body assembly once and still have code 122. I can barely drive the thing. It bucks and surges like crazy
    • By John M in Louisiana
      Quick question about replacing the plug.  One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs.  15amp 125v?  Is it more complicated than that?  I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
      Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...